LONDON
Stepping into The Ritz for dinner is like entering a world where time has stood still and opulence reigns supreme . Nestled in the heart of Piccadilly , the iconic hotel has long been synonymous with luxury and its dining experience is no exception .
Greeted with inimitable East End charm by the tail-coated concierge , we made our way through the iconic revolving doors beneath the unmistakable canopied entrance , across the polished marble floor and plush carpet , and past the resident pianist tinkling jazz tunes on the grand piano before arriving at the grand doors to The Ritz Restaurant .
Inside , the dining room is a visual spectacle . Louis XVI-style décor is an ode to classical elegance . Grandeur pours from every corner ; humongous towering marble columns , crystal chandeliers and ornate mirrors that reflect the golden glow of candlelight . The ambience is nothing short of majestic , and of course is the perfect setting for the culinary journey that awaited us .
Navigating the dining room like a swan-like army , there are staff everywhere yet nowhere , as they , seemingly invisible but extraordinarily efficiently , coordinate a fine-dining dance , depicting their role simply by their almost imperceptive uniform which tells whether they are server , sommelier or maître d ’.
Upon being seated at a grand round table set for two , we were greeted by our sommelier , who offered an expertly curated selection of wines . The wine list is as impressive as you ’ d expect , boasting an array of fine vintages that complement the refined menu as well as the ‘ Champagne of the Month ’, a regularly changing list from which we chose a glass of Charles Heidsieck Rosé Reserve NV and Blanc des Millénaires 2014 to commence proceedings .
Dining at The Ritz offers both the option of a five- or seven-course tasting menu , ‘ The Epicurean Journey ’, which showcases ‘ the love and knowledge of gourmet food and fine wine , dedicated to the gourmand who takes pleasure in enjoying and exploring luxurious food ,’ and a main à la carte menu including The Ritz ’ s legendary ‘ Arts De La Table ’ options that combine classic dishes with tableside service in a harmonious fusion of culinary flamboyance and prestige .
It was from the latter menu that Mr R and I opted to choose .
The meal began with an amuse-bouche that set the tone for the evening ; first , two delicate bites of the most beautiful buttery pastry with truffled cheese , the second an ingenious take on coronation chicken - rich , indulgent and delicately spiced , it was an utter triumph and an exquisite prelude to the dishes that followed .
For starters , Mr R was totally enthused by the langoustine à la nage and bronze fennel , a dish as pleasing to the eye as it was the palate with delicate , pink , plump langoustine sat enveloped by a cream sauce with hints of herb and caviar dressed in fresh peppery leaves . I opted for the roast quail with verjus and hazelnut . The richness of the delicate pan-seared quail was complemented by the subtle acidity of the verjus , a juice made from unripened grapes , which added a subtle tang , and the soft nutty flavour of the hazelnut , which also brought subtle textural contrast to enhance the dish .
The main however was the star of the show . Foregoing the tableside theatrics of the iconic beef Wellington ( I know , I know …), Mr R decided to keep it strictly pescatarian , opting for our server ’ s recommendation : Cornish turbot ‘ ton sur ton ’.
The Cornish turbot , a prized flatfish known for its delicate texture and mild flavour , was the pan-seared star of this dish . Carefully prepared to retain the natural sweetness of the fish , the term ‘ ton sur ton ’, which translates to ‘ tone on tone ’, was a worthy description of the harmonious layering of flavours and textures that followed . Classic beurre blanc , rich jus and simple shards of fresh courgette and sea herbs offered just the right amount of acidity to balance the natural oils of the turbot .
I had the pleasure of the Suffolk lamb with aubergine and black garlic . Renowned for its tender texture and rich flavour , the lamb was showcased in two huge trimmed rack chops , roasted to pink perfection , maintaining the natural succulence of the meat and enhancing its deep savoury flavours . Flavours were again enhanced by the smooth , smoky , earthy depths of aubergine purée , as mild bitterness and slightly sweet undertones played to the lamb ’ s richness . While the inclusion of black garlic added that unique sweet and savoury umami complexity , the dish as a whole was a perfect example of how traditional flavours can be reimagined in a luxurious , contemporary finish .
Again forgoing the tableside theatrics of The Ritz ’ s signature Crêpe Suzette , quite possibly inexcusable were it not for the fact that Mr R had been waylaid by the offer of cheese , I had also noted one of my all-time favourite desserts on the menu .
First came cheese , a show-stopping , whiteglove pushed trolley of incredible UK cheeses from which , under expert tutelage and advice , Mr R was able to navigate from the subtle creaminess of soft Baron Bigod to the distinctive tang of Stinking Bishop on a fivecheese plate rounded off with crisp crackers , nuts and chutney .
Next , my pick , the caramelised apple tart with roast vanilla and lemon thyme . Sophisticated and of course a masterpiece of pastry craftsmanship , the delicate buttery shell was a whimsical sweet exploration from the first amuse-bouche bite and a crispy , thin , buttery foundation for layers of finely sliced apples that were meticulously arranged on top . Caramelised sweetness offset by the fruit ’ s natural tartness , the vanilla was a natural , aromatic accompaniment , yet it was the hint of herbal freshness from the lemon verbena that brought sophisticated and unexpected brightness .
Mr R , happy to try more , picked the infamous Ritz chocolate soufflé with vanilla Chantilly . It was simply incredible . The epitome of elegance and indulgence , for which the restaurant is rightly acclaimed , the soufflé is of course a marvel of culinary precision . Served pristine with an unrivalled rise of light airyness , the delicate crisp top gave way to a molten , velvety interior that was rich with deep , dark chocolate . Intense yet balanced , it demonstrated a luxurious sweetness that lingered on the palate without overwhelming it , while the vanilla Chantilly proved the perfect counterpoint .
Bursting with culinary excitement and sated by some of the globe ’ s more acclaimed cookery , we finally got our Arts De La Table courtesy of a surprise flourish which came with an order for peppermint tea .
What appeared was another white-glovepushed golden trolley , bedecked with fresh , potted mint varieties ranging from lemon to chocolate , strawberry and orange via peppermint . Having chosen your preferred tipple , the scissors appear in gloved hand as the leaves are each hand-cut before being steeped in filtered hot water while an attendant appears with a gold egg timer to ensure brewing perfection ; it was indeed an incredible theatrical experience and a fitting end to the meal .
Dining at The Ritz is more than just a meal ; it ’ s an experience that engages all the senses .
The surroundings are unrivalled in their opulence and service is impeccable ; the staff possess an almost telepathic ability to anticipate your needs , appearing at just the right moment with a warm smile and a helpful suggestion , striking that carefully perfected balance between attentiveness and discretion , ensuring that every dining experience is both seamless and personal .
And , of course , every dish is meticulously crafted , beautifully presented and will exceed any expectation . The Ritz Restaurant is truly a place where tradition meets innovation , and where every bite is a celebration of culinary artistry . If you ’ re looking to indulge in the finer things in life , an evening at The Ritz should be at the top of your list .
The Ritz Restaurant is open for dinner , Sunday to Thursday , from 6:30pm – 9pm . ‘ Live at The Ritz ’ Dinner is served Friday to Saturday from 6:30pm – 9pm . Advanced booking is essential .
The Ritz 150 Piccadilly London W1J 9BR
www . theritzlondon . com theritzlondon www . insidekent . co . uk • 109