TRAVEL
MILES OF WHITE SANDY BEACHES , 17 OF THEM IN FACT , A COMMITMENT TO SUSTAINABILITY , BURSTING WITH ARTS AND CULTURE , AND OFFERING A RELAXED WATERSIDE APPROACH TO LIFE , NEW SMYRNA BEACH IS GATHERING MOMENTUM , EVOLVING FROM A SLEEPY BEACHSIDE TOWN TO A LAIDBACK MUST-VISIT DESTINATION UNDERPINNED BY ESCAPISM . BY SAMANTHA READY
Situated on Florida ’ s east coast , just a few miles south of Daytona ( yes that of International Speedway fame ) and north of Cape Canaveral , home of course to the Kennedy Space Centre , New Smyrna Beach ( NSB ) feels like a lifetime away from the hustle and bustle of Florida ’ s central Orlando theme park thrills and tourism top spots ; rather than the mere hour or so it takes to drive there from it . Boasting the most biologically diverse estuary in North America and sandwiched between the Intercoastal Waterway on one side and the crash of the Atlantic Ocean on the other , this little enclave is home to more than 400 species of birds , dolphin , manatees , alligators , turtles ( and more !), as well as boasting excellent surfing conditions , glorious beaches , fabulous local ( often fresh seafood ) food offerings , a myriad of water-based activities and a relaxed approach to downtime . Making it , somewhat ironically , both a perfect place for escapism for adults and the perfect quieter pace holiday for families .
Settled in 1768 , New Smyrna was in fact the largest attempt of British colonisation in the New World , led by Dr . Andrew Turnbull , a Scottish physician and entrepreneur who named the area in honour of his wife , whose birthplace was Smyrna , Asia Minor ( now Izmir , Turkey ). Since then , the area has been under the rule of four ‘ flags ’: British , Spanish , United States and the Confederate Jack , was noted for its production of sugar cane , and only changed from New Smyrna to New Smyrna Beach in 1947 . Its colonial history is evident from street names such as Canal Street to the era ’ s instantly recognisable and truly impressive architecture . Today , Florida ’ s second oldest city is an eclectic melting pot of old and new , subtle sophistication and bohemian soul and a very unique vibe .
As we soon discovered , arriving Ready family en masse in late October .
We could all feel the instant shoulder slump that comes from leaving frenetic city ( and theme park ) life behind for carefree sandytoed beach days ; yet it was with wide-eyed awe that we rolled into town . Streets here became wider , mini dunes appeared as roads gave way to beach , and the vista can only be described as if the bohemian artists who descend to the shores here had taken paintbrushes themselves to those aforementioned colonial buildings , as bright pastel buildings gleamed under the sunshine state ’ s acclaimed rays . The colourful streets , lined with independent shops , galleries , B & Bs , artisan coffee shops and restaurants , seamlessly glide you to waters edge , itself a hodgepodge of sunlovers , surfers , artists and families , and in doing so glide you into relaxation too .
Our abode for our mini New Smyrna Beach stay was the perfectly situated SpringHill Suites by Marriott New Smyrna Beach . Sat at the conjecture of lively Flagler Avenue , New Smyrna ’ s main street , and its main white sand beach , the oceanfront property was simply beautiful .
Couples here can take advantage of the ocean-facing rooms from which they can throw open their shuttered balcony doors and simply watch the waves hit shore below . Families , such as our own , are afforded larger spaces , typically facing
Florida ’ s temperatures make it a fantastic late half-term destination !
out to Flagler Avenue , big enough for two queen beds , a pull out sofa , bathroom and lounge area . Staff were effortlessly friendly , helpful and efficient . While other big draws , aside from the underground parking , include a picture-postcard perfect sea-view swimming pool , direct access to the beach and a daily hot and cold breakfast available from the Barefoot Bar and Café , which can be enjoyed inside in the contemporary air conditioned lounge or on the beachside terrace on balmy mornings .
In some kind of miracle , despite offering free WiFi , devices here were instantly dumped and NSB became the digital detox we evidently all needed . Shoes and latterly even flip flops were discarded , pools were splashed in , sandcastles were made - and jumped on - and made again . Local streets were leisurely meandered - an exploration made easier by the Waterfront Loop that connects the two distinct downtowns along Flagler Avenue , where you can follow the brick-laid walkways from sunrise on the beach to sunset on the Indian River Lagoon past eclectic shops , cafes and live music bars , and Canal Street , a wonderful arts and culture district that ’ s home to numerous galleries , studios and is great for shopping and entertainment too ! - and glorious food was enjoyed .
In a massive buck to stereotypical American culture , with the exception of Starbucks , Dunkin ’ Donuts and Subway , there are no national chain restaurants found on the area ’ s barrier island . Meaning that most of NSB ’ s dining establishments are locally owned , busting with local produce and loved by locals and visitors alike . Hurrah !
We ventured out on night one to local Crabby ’ s Bar & Grill ( 203 S Atlantic Ave , New Smyrna Beach , FL 32169 / crabbysnsb . com ), which should have been visible from our hotel room , but to our utter surprise was shrouded in complete darkness . WiFi reconnected , Google reliably informed us it was in fact open , and we somewhat trepidatiously crossed the street to investigate … Met , much to the absolute delight of nine-year-old Lyla , with a notice informing us it was blackout season due to the hatching of the region ’ s turtle population - who , if you were super lucky , you may be able to watch make their first flipper-across-sand dash to the Atlantic ! Finding the dimly lit door , with six-year-old Jaxon now fully believing we had crossed into Spongebob world such was the styling , we ventured into Crabby ’ s to be met with a warm welcome and a fabulous second-floor , open-air dining room offering unrivalled ocean views and a wholesome menu of family favourites .
Boasting ‘ crab ’ icons to depict its house specials , we were wholeheartedly encouraged by our server to try as many as we were hungry for ! Including the easy peel shrimp , caught fresh and smothered in old bay seasoning ; the braised mac n cheese , which was heaving with hunks of slow-cooked beef and had that dreamy white cheddar cheese pull ; and the Florida grouper tacos featuring lightly fried grouper topped with cabbage , cheddar , tangy baja sauce and house salsa verde . The kids made light work of freshly baked pizza and crispy French fries . Bursting with fresh seafood boils , sandwiches and tacos , it was the drinks menu that offered another pleasant and refreshing surprise with a range of super cocktails and frozen cocktails to complete our visit - the strawberry lemonade mojito was fabulous !
Refreshed in a way that only a digi-detox and fresh sea air can do , we were up bright and early for our day two adventure : a morning kayak tour courtesy of Viking Eco Tours ( vikingecotours . com ).
In a clearly informed wise move , 17-year-old Maddie decided that she was happy with a beach day , while the rest of us headed around 15 minutes ’ away to find Eric Hansen , Viking Eco Tours ’ effervescent founder .
A small , conservation-minded tour company , Viking Eco Tours operate a host
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