FOOD + DRINK
Foraging has become an increasingly popular pastime among those seeking connection with nature and a source of fresh , healthy – and free ! - food . Although it ’ s often perceived as a fad , it ’ s actually an age-old practice that has been around for thousands of years . Although the basic definition of foraging has remained the same throughout history , the way people forage has changed over time . Although our ancestors had knowledge of their landscapes and knew how to identify wild edible plants , modern life and the convenience-based lifestyle we ’ ve gradually adapted to has resulted in the loss of this knowledge for most of us . So , what exactly is foraging and how can Kentish locals get involved ?
By definition , foraging is the act of going from place to place , searching , identifying and collecting food resources in the wild , including a wide range of uncultivated plants , mushrooms , herbs , and fruits that grow naturally in our surroundings . In years gone by , foraging was a normal part of life , and everyone would pick blackberries from hedgerows or pluck an apple from a tree for a swift snack . Every household would use the ingredients growing locally , which were often growing wild , but as urbanisation has advanced , the interest in wild foods has declined and people simply aren ’ t given the opportunity to learn about how food is grown and where it comes from as everything can be found in supermarkets .
With increased awareness about the environment and our collective carbon footprint , however , not forgetting unsightly scandals that keep popping up in the food industry ( horsemeat beefburger , anyone ?), many people are rediscovering the benefits of foraging , not just for their health , but in a bid to reconnect with the natural landscape that surrounds us , not least in Kent , a county with an abundance of delicious , fresh produce around every corner that ’ s known as England ’ s very own garden .
“ I fell in love with foraging on moving to the Kent coast 10 years ago . The landscape of the Herne Bay downs was new and exciting , the plants were different , so I set about learning some of their names . In doing so , I discovered an abundance of wild food and forgotten flavours . The blackberries , plums and apples we might be most familiar were the tip of the foraging iceberg .”
AMY HITCHCOCK , FORTH AND FORAGE
So , what is wild food ? The term refers to any plant or mushroom that is gathered for consumption and has not been cultivated or managed to increase its mass-production . On a broader note , this definition also includes seaweed , molluscs , fishing and game , although there are more stringent rules and regulations concerning these categories . Weeds , often considered the bane of the green-fingered , can actually be edible and very nutritious , but they ’ re not commonly found in shops because modern farming practices tend to prioritise profit over practicality .
And what does it mean to be a forager ? Collecting wild food from our local environment deepens our connection with the land , so that we naturally become more attuned to the sights and sounds of nature and gain a more insightful appreciation for the local landscape and our cultural heritage . Foragers are incredibly conscientious people who observe seasonal changes in the environment , developing a meaningful and ongoing relationship with the land and providing an alternative option to the current global food system that enables year-round access to food from anywhere – which doesn ’ t exactly scream eco-friendly .
Effectively , foraging is a sustainable way of sourcing food that reduces our dependence on industrial agriculture and preserves natural habitats , supporting local ecosystems and contributing to the longterm health and vitality of our environment . As we delve into summer , enjoying the warm sunshine and fresh air , it ’ s time to set our sights a little closer to the ground to spot glimpses of bright red through the greenery , bursts of white amongst the shrubs and pockets of green peeping up at us from the floor , which can only mean one thing - Kent ’ s beautiful fresh food is ready to be picked ! Ready to be blown away by the delights you can find right on your doorstep ? We had a chat with Amy Hitchcock , expert forager and founder of Herne Bay-based foraging tour business , Forth and Forage , about all things foraging in Kent .
WHERE TO FORAGE We are blessed in Kent with a relatively mild climate and a beautiful coast . Some of my favourite places to forage are ‘ edges ’ where two habitats meet . In spring , the woodland offers onion and garlic flavours in the form of ramsons , jack-by-the-hedge and sometimes the invasive three-cornered leek , which is like a wild spring onion .
Meanwhile , coastal delicacies such as sea beet and purslane are putting on vigorous new growth . Surprisingly exotic flavours such as ‘ cardamom ’ seeds from the Alexanders plant and spicy hoary ( Thanet ) cress open up new horizons when it comes to reducing food miles . Who would have thought there were spices growing so close to home ?
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