LONDON looking after us that we ’ d happily sunk a refreshing hibiscus Bellini and a spicy Bangkok margarita before even looking at the menu . Fully relaxed , it was time to choose , however , and with some expert guidance on what to choose depending on which wine we had our eyes on , decisions were made based on two important factors : 1 ) we wanted everything ; and 2 ) we were helped to narrow our wish list down by the selection of an exceptional 2022 Sancerre Vigne Blanche Domaine Henri Bourgeois Loire from the ‘ elegant and mineral ’ section of their heavenly artisan wine list .
The menu is divided into four sections : small plates , fish , meat , rice and noodles , and it ’ s advised to select three small plates as a starter to share between two . So , of course , we chose four . In the toss-up between chicken and shrimp nam rolls ; crispy on the outside and packed with plump sweet prawns , soft shredded chicken , gem lettuce and a zingy combination of Thai basil and Japanese shiso all dipped in a hot , sour and salty Vietnamese nuoc cham sauce , and Malaysian chicken curry puffs , which were light as air but strong in their flavours of citrus , anise and coriander – both dishes won . Paired with the Sticky Mango signature of spicy black pepper prawns with sweet , dehydrated pineapple , earthy
pea shoots and cubes of crunchy jicama , and an instantly palate-cleansing sharp , but honeyed salad of Thai green mango , I ’ m convinced we hit the culinary jackpot .
Next , an entire Singapore chilli lobster cooked to light pink , buttery perfection and doused in a gentle shallot and coriander sauce so as not to overpower the meaty richness of the shellfish vanished in seconds , its spicy sauce mopped up with a steamed bao bun . We teamed this with miso-glazed black cod – the kitchen ’ s skilful cookery manages to balance the deeply savoury taste of miso with the gentle flavours of cod so masterfully that the immediate flavour sensation is Asian cooking ’ s mecca : umami ; an exquisite taste that ’ s as much a feeling of contentedness and satisfaction as it is a palate-pleaser . To finish our mains , a dish of gochujang pork belly with spicy mayo , pickled salad and a glazed bao bun – essentially the ultimate pork belly sandwich , but one with hot rendered fat that coated the mouth in the indulgent way that only pork belly can , and a theatrical side of truffle egg-fried rice that was generous with musky truffle and prepared tableside .
I ’ m not usually one for desserts ; as is evident , I usually over order savoury dishes and am happy with that choice , but you can ’ t come to Sticky Mango without ordering the restaurant ’ s eponymous pudding . And it should come as no surprise that it didn ’ t disappoint . Sticky Mango – a traditional Southeast and South Asian dessert made with glutinous rice , fresh mango and coconut milk , but this time elevated by the use of gooey black sticky rice , a mango sorbet singing with tropical freshness and a rich coconut cream , it was as comforting as a bowl of rice pudding and tasted simply delicious .
Stepping out of the shadows of the quaint , atmospheric streets of Shad Thames like a modern beacon of gastronomic light , Sticky Mango is neither dwarfed by the magnificence of Tower Bridge , nor does it fall back on such an unbeatable location . A standout addition to London ’ s foodie scene in its own right , excellence and attention to detail combine beautifully here , all propped up by an electric and sociable atmosphere – it ’ s sensational .
Sticky Mango 36c Shad Thames London SE1 2YE
0207 928 4554 www . stickymango . co . uk / towerbridge stickymangoldn www . insidekent . co . uk • 119