KENTSTAYCATION
WATER LANE
A WALLED GARDEN WONDER IN THE HEART OF THE WEALD
WONDERS OF THE WEALD
BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED IN THE OUTSKIRTS OF HAWKHURST , WATER LANE IS THE EPITOME OF ‘ HIDDEN GEM ’ OR RATHER MORE APTLY A SECRET GARDEN . A LUNCH DATE OFFERED A WELCOME RETURN TO KENT ’ S STUNNING KITCHEN GARDEN DINING CONCEPT FOR SAMANTHA READY .
The irony of heading to one of Kent ’ s most picturesque , canvas-sail-roofed , al fresco dining spots in the midst of one of the summer ’ s more torrential of downpours was not lost on me . That said , following the winding countryside lanes out of Ashford across the Weald to Hawkhurst to the little garden door that heralds your arrival at the walled garden-comerestaurant-come all encompassing rural curated artisan concept is decidedly beautiful regardless of the weather .
As raindrops careered off of the canvas tent that marks the outside dining space and the neatly planted rows of meadow flowers and vegetables , it was both surprising and wonderfully refreshing to see that the heart of the estate remains almost as it was when I first ventured here just as it opened two years ago .
The effervescent Nick Selby , ( who along with partner Ian Jones are proud custodians of the gardens and their dilapidated yet beautiful Victorian greenhouses and potting sheds , following a whirlwind rollercoaster of leaving the Big Smoke and their much heralded Melrose and Morgan concept stores in outpost de rigeur Primrose Hill and Hampstead following a vision for a countryside oasis of food steps , meadow flowers and a slower pace ), appeared with another warm welcome : “ Not much has changed since you were last here really . Well aside from the weather .” He joked . And that is kind of the point .
The idyllic walled garden still boasts its commanding canvas strung sail big top-esq seating area , where the small but equally enthusiastic team pick a daily bounty from the now burgeoning vegetable patches and fruit trees to devise seasonally changing menus which are cooked in the outdoor wood fired ovens ; to the continued delight of a swathe of returning supporters and open-mouthed awe of first-time adventurers . Both camps afforded canvas-framed views of the stunning gardens as they devour the day ’ s delicious menu offerings .
Printed with eco-inks and bursting with fresh produce , the menu remains as clever as it is simple . Dishes are , perhaps somewhat expectantly , driven by the produce grown just inches from the diners ; who continue to appear in droves from curiosity-driven , word-of-mouth recommendations and , in further testament to the duo ’ s concept , returning aplomb .
Amongst the selection of small starters , lighter dishes and larger plates , some carefully selected teas , expertly curated wines , and some rather delectable fresh cakes , tarts and ice-cream , ( yet more evidence of Ian and Nick ’ s formidable wealth of food and horticultural knowledge ) and driven not-least by the views of the open wood fire , the chill in the air and some in-the-know recommendations , my guest and I opted for the flatbread and a steak twist on a classic Caesar salad .
The bread was a bouncy , soft , wood-charred pillow of fresh beetroot , delicious pickled cherries and rich Winnie ’ s Wheel cheese . The salad , simply prepared with a subtly-flavoured house Caesar dressing , offered delicately seared bavette steak alongside wood-fire-seared greyhound cabbage , lashings of grated Parmasen and a generous helping of herby , crispy gremolata ; a wonderful alternative to traditional croutons .
Never ones to turn down dessert we certainly couldn ' t resist the lure of the housemade Kentish strawberry soft serve , which packed a flavourful fruity punch , and the most delicious take on a Water Lane pavlova , featuring crisp meringue , fresh raspberries and a delightful lemon verbena custard .
Sated and happy to meander back through the gardens and the potting shed artisan store , it was then that Nick ’ s closing remark about the future looking very exciting came into full effect . For bedecking the walls are carefully constructed architect impressions of a wooden framed , floor to ceiling windowed garden-room-like-no-other that will in time become the permanent , and all weather-friendly , new abode for the Water Lane restaurant , the future is indeed looking as bright and as fresh as the sweetpeas and veggie patches . If you haven ’ t been you simply must , and when you do , get that flatbread …
Walled Garden Water Lane Hawkhurst TN18 5DH www . waterlane . net
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