FOOD + DRINK
© David Charbit
EMBERS :
AN ORIGINAL , INVENTIVE AND EXCELLENT NEW HOTSPOT IN THE HEART OF BRIGHTON ’ S LANES
TUCKED AWAY ALONG THE ATMOSPHERIC HOTCHPOTCH OF LATE-EIGHTEENTH AND EARLY- NINETEENTH-CENTURY BUILDINGS THAT MAKE UP MEETING HOUSE LANE , ONE OF BRIGHTON ’ S MOST HISTORIC TWITTENS , YOU ’ LL FIND EMBERS – A NEW RESTAURANT CELEBRATING SUSSEX PRODUCE COOKED OVER BURNING WOOD-FIRE .
Although the area in which it sits is one of the older parts of the city ’ s famed Lanes , the arrival of this joint venture from renowned Brighton chefs and long-term friends , Dave Marrow and Isaac Bartlett- Copeland , marks a modern twist amongst the restaurant ’ s neighbouring jewellery shops and antiques emporiums , and is an apt and very welcome addition to the city ’ s inclusive personality .
Any visitors unfamiliar with this part of Brighton need not worry ; like a wonderful olfactory trail that guides you ever nearer with the heavenly smoky scent of kiln-dried ash and birch wood , you will smell Embers well before you even realise you ’ re at the door . Allowing the blazing medieval wood-fire cage that sits over smouldering embers ( and on which everything is cooked ) to take centre stage , the 42- cover dining room is a warm yet pared-back space with a sophisticated dash of speakeasy . Its design is slick , incorporating lots of natural wood , and a predominantly black and grey palette with flecks of bronze and chrome lending a functional , industrial feel ; it ’ s very cool but entirely unaffected – somewhere groups of friends sharing a feast will be just as comfortable as a couple who ’ ve popped in for a few late-night cocktails .
Alongside a choice of innovative cocktails including my all-time favourite , the Cadillac Jo ’ Margarita , a blend of mezcal , chilli and citrus that hits a magical note of sweet , salt , bitter and sour with each and every sip , the menu is divided into small plates and
three centrepieces . Drawing inspiration from Embers ’ ancestral cooking ethos , dishes are served sharingstyle to encourage a fun and laid-back dining experience and the menu , although playful , has clearly been curated with expertise using ingredients that will have every ounce of possible flavour drawn from them by the glowing wood-fire cage .
Although it was tough to resist one of the three centrepieces on offer : hake with vadouvan mussels ; dry-aged pork tomahawk with fish sauce caramel ; and shitake and cashew laab with miso and charred hispi , we went with a selection of smaller sharing plates in a bid to taste as much glorious food as we could .
Gamey and tender smoked lamb chump with mint and garlic scapes that tasted like baby asparagus followed delicate sea bass , flamed and served with smoky salsa rossa and a citrus kick of preserved lemon . A rich and meaty beef short rib tasting of aniseed and herby hot wasabi paired beautifully with a creamy potato salad elevated by pickled mustard seeds , crispy shallot and an earthy charcoaltasting emulsion . Marinated cucumber served with whipped coconut yoghurt and a nutty dukkah accompaniment continued to cleanse our palates allowing the Mexican notes of charred broccoli with sweetcorn cream , mole and hazelnut to sing , and finally pave the way for the deeply savoury dish of the day – tender Denver steak with smooth celeriac , crunchy radish and a silky gravy rich in the
unbeatable flavour of umami that was the very essence of deliciousness .
I knew we were in safe hands at Embers when I was greeted by Alex Preston , the extremely talented sommelier at Bartlett-Copeland ’ s sister restaurant , Isaac At , who is unafraid to rewrite rules when it comes to great wine and swiftly introduced me to an incredible red blend : Estampado Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec ; thank you Alex . As with all of the restaurant team , however , along with the setting and the concept at Embers , the food here is original , inventive and interesting , but not in the least bit pretentious . Marrow and Bartlett-Copeland know their stuff – an opinion that soon becomes a firm fact when you taste the phenomenal amount of flavour they ’ re able to pack into every bite of the food they serve here . Cosy and intriguing with a healthy side serving of theatrics courtesy of the unique cooking technique that Embers so expertly displays , this restaurant is something special .
Embers 42 Meeting House Ln Brighton BN1 1HB 01273 869222 embersbrighton . co . uk
embers _ restaurant _
102