FOOD + DRINK
Our table of four is in high spirits , but with surroundings such as these , I believe it impossible not to be . As we clink flutes of Gusbourne ’ s best sparkling , I observe the stage that is Folkestone ’ s harbour in the fading evening light before doing an in-depth study of the menu .
First come the cocktails . An extensive menu that boasts sections according to style ( think ‘ classics with a twist ’ vs ‘ spritz ’), I opt to choose from the ‘ teetotallers ’ section . Eventually I whittle it down with much second guessing to a ‘ mangapinna ’ consisting of pomegranate , agave , Lyre ’ s 0 % tequila and aquafaba . When said beauty is placed in front of me , I am pleased with myself , and naturally , out comes the phone . One thing about Rocksalt that goes without saying is this : everything is Instagrammable . Whether the views act as the subject themselves or play the part of backdrop to a glorious creation from the menu ( or in fact , yourself ), the natural light and sublime beauty of each creation promise all it takes for the ultimate picture . My cocktail is no exception : a fuschia pink delight adorned with foam and flowers , it is just as exquisite on the tongue as it is on the eye . A fruity yet wonderfully sharp elixir , its airy aquafaba foam is the dreamiest of textures before the juicy nectar hits the taste buds .
After gorging on fluffy warm breads and creamy sea-salted butter , our next big decision comes in the form of starters . An eclectic array of ingredients make up these ingenious little plates , so no matter your taste , something is certain to satisfy . I , ever the salad lover , opt for the blood orange , feta , honeyed walnuts , basil vinaigrette , and Rebel Farmer shoots salad . I realise now , that before even encroaching upon my main , I have already indulged in two products of The Garden of England - Gusbourne and Rebel Farmer . When speaking with the maître d ', I question him on Rocksalt ’ s ethos . He tells me
that despite being big on Kentish produce before economic inflation and the rising cost of living in the UK , Rocksalt are now even more firmly dedicated to sourcing as much as they can locally . All the fish - an obvious speciality here at Rocksalt - comes from local waters via local traders , as does most of the menu . “ We rethought as much as we could when it came to sourcing ingredients locally , even more so than we did before . This has worked in our favour . Kent has so much to offer and this also means everything is fresher and holds more flavour .” The maître d ’ is not wrong and my salad is a perfect example of this . Bursting with freshness , the zesty sweetness of the blood orange entangles sublimely with the sharp savoury vinegar and distinctive feta flavour , the cheese ’ s soft texture a crumbly contrast to the honeyed walnuts , which provide a nutty , candy-like crunch in all this leafy goodness .
But , you may ask , who is responsible for satisfying this fashionable flavour craving that Folkestone never knew it had ? The culinary marvel behind the menu ? Chef Marcin Szelka . As we order our mains we are yet to meet Marcin , but this eclectic array of gorgeous sounding dishes has me wondering at his identity . It takes some serious talent for a man with so much on his plate ( Rocksalt is one of five siblings , including Little Rock on the beach ) to effortlessly and continuously hit the mark when it comes to food and style . A surreal example of this comes in the form of my next dish . As we are next to the sea , I appropriately choose from the ‘ fishmonger ’ section of the menu ( as opposed to the ‘ butcher ’ or ‘ shellfish ’ sections ) and a dazzling dish is set down before me . Again , the camera is whipped out in awe - the subject this time ? Pan-fried sea bass , wild garlic velouté , new potatoes and clams . It is the visual aspect of the wild garlic that delivers the beauty of this dish - a vibrant green velouté creating a stunning pool for the bass to sit in while dainty flowers are scattered amongst pretty clam shells which shimmer an
iridescent pearl in the evening light . As with any fish dish , to deliver optimum flavour the fish must be cooked to perfection and of course , this sea bass is exactly that . A crunchy , salty skin satisfies on first bite , while the soft white meat of the fish is nothing less than heavenly - especially when covered in the buttery garlic velouté and snuggled up nicely with a perfectly cooked new potato on the fork .
Although content and happily full , so in awe are we of our starters and mains , we naturally finish with dessert . Craving a zesty , almost palate-cleansing pud , I decide upon the baked cheesecake with passionfruit and mango sorbet . As expected , this is again beautifully presented : a neat little circle of cheesecake drizzled with passionfruit and crowned with a spherical sorbet scoop . The saltiness of the crumb and the creamy dairy flavour of the cheesecake seamlessly hits the sought after sweet-versus-savoury flavour ratio when met with the tropical notes of mango and citrus sharpness of passion fruit . A divine end to a delectable dinner . What more could one want from a meal upon Kent ’ s balmy shores ?
www . rocksaltfolkestone . co . uk
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