FOOD + DRINK
UNFUSSY , RUSTIC , WONDERFULLY WELCOMING AND SUPERBLY SEASONAL – A DINING DELIGHT AWAITS AT :
SAMPHIRE , WHITSTABLE
WITH THE KENTISH COASTAL WIND WHIPPING UP A PRE-SPRING STORM , IN A WEEK THAT TOOK US FROM SNOW STORMS TO SUNSHINE , THE AIR BECAME INSTANTLY WARMER AS MY GUEST AND I WERE USHERED ACROSS THE THRESHOLD OF WHITSTABLE ’ S CLASSIC BISTRO LIKE OLD FRIENDS IN A TAG TEAM OF FRONT OF HOUSE EXCELLENCE DEMONSTRATED BY JONATHON AND DEBBIE . BY SAMANTHA READY
Set on Whitstable ’ s High Street , just a few short steps to the seafront , the double-fronted building has that air of lived-in warmth and generosity ; with an unpretentious style , unwavering commitment to sustainability and of course a passion for really good food .
Founded in 2006 by George Begg , who had trained as a chef in Australia in the 90s , Samphire became Whitstable ’ s first bistro to be open all day every day , taking guests from relaxed brunches through lunch to a neighbourhood supper style proper dining experience by night ; all delivered using the best in local produce .
Today , nearly two decades on , Samphire not only continues to harness its seaside locale ( expect a tranche of fresh seafood dishes and those local oysters ) but also its wider Garden of England roots , with head chef Mark O ’ Brien ’ s commitment to live fire cookery and whole fish and animal butchery showcased through a menu which is combination of well-conceived and well-priced set options , alongside portico-cooked specials chalked on generous boards which stand proudly in the window .
Taking our window-side seats at a cosy table for two , located behind the neat , black painted facade , we were presented with the daily lunch menu and a tempting wine and cocktail list .
We began our menu perusal with a bowl of temptingly good olives and a heaving slab of warm , freshly baked onsite focaccia , which came not only heaving with generous nuggets of confit garlic and drenched in olive oil , but also sat proudly atop of old menu paper , yet further demonstration of Samphire ’ s sustainability ethos .
Lured by the daily specials , Mr R began with the Rye Bay scallops , a rich , buttery , spicy offering with nduja and sauerkraut , while I warmed up with a heaving , and delicious , bowl of roast cauliflower soup with toasted sourdough ; both perfectly washed down with a glass of Chapel Down Flint Dry .
Mains offered the most decision-making , Mr R finally opting for the beef cheek bourguignon served with clapshot , the hearty , sticky cured delicate melt-inthe-mouth beef perfectly offset with hunks of carrot and mushroom . This time I opted for the specials , lured by the house pork chop which was perfectly flame-grilled on the open fire , fuelled by Kent Charcoal lumpwood , and offset with pickled salad and grilled January king cabbage . Probably totally sated by our hearty dishes , we ’ re not ones to turn down dessert , especially ones that were proudly boasting the first crop of new season rhubarb , this time in the form of a rhubarb and custard baked Alaska . Served bubbling in a cast iron skillet , the soft , sweet , torched meringue gave way to sweet shards of rhubarb and a rich custard cream , finding the home baked rosemary biscuits hidden beneath giving a delightful flavour and texture to cut through the rich treat .
Just sat watching the world go by , the hubbub and ethos of the restaurant was evident . Neighbouring diners had dietary needs effortlessly met , celebratory families delighted in the nuanced menu from their last visit , and Debbie appeared clutching some vintage port glasses excitedly found in the Pilgrims charity shop next door which will soon be joining the tables for the next day ’ s guests .
We left pleasantly sated , and vowing to return .
Samphire 4 High Street Whitstable Kent CT5 1BQ www . samphirewhitstable . co . uk
samphirewhit samphire _ whitstable
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