FOOD + DRINK
THE GARDEN ROOM
AT PORT LYMPNE RESERVE
BY SAMANTHA READY
COMBINING A STUNNING LOCATION ELEVATED ABOVE THE RESERVE ’ S 600 ACRES , A BEAUTIFUL RELAXED- ELEGANT DINING SPACE , AND AN EVIDENT COMMITMENT TO FRESH LOCAL PRODUCE AND MODERN BRITISH COOKERY , THE GARDEN ROOM REALLY IS QUITE LOVELY .
Unlike many who stumble across the reserve ’ s hidden-gem mansion house while safari-ing across the Kentish plains in search of rhinos , gorillas , lions , tigers , and the odd dinosaur too , the Ready family are already fans of the stunning 1920 ’ s hotel and dining offering now showcased by The Garden Room restaurant . This time however we had the added excitement of arriving by golf buggy , one of the perks of taking up residence in Leopard Creek for a family staycation quite unlike any other , which meant we could also take full advantage of the dinner options available here for residents and day guests alike .
Designed by Victoria Aspinall with the aim of creating a relaxed garden experience , the dining room is simply beautiful . The orangery-style high roof floods the space with natural light . There are swathes of greenery across the walls , while the original arched windows and doorways are echoed in arched mirrors on the walls , bouncing yet more light and reflecting greenery in every direction .
Practical as well as stylish , the tiled floor opens into a perfectly spaced restaurant . Framed to the right by a sleek bar , it offers a mix of small and large farmhouse-style tables spaced currently to cater for intimate couples or small family groups , the latter made easier by ample banquette seating . It is light , airy and comfortably modern .
Under the esteemed helm of executive chef Lee Edney , who has led the kitchen charge here since The Garden Room opened , the seasonal menu offers laid-back , unpretentious British plates packed full of flavour and quality ingredients . Alongside a seasonally
changing menu , boasting garden bites such as focaccia , olives and oysters , with select starters and mains , you ’ ll find a carefully curated wine list and a botanical-inspired cocktail offering . While the children ’ s menu offers smaller sized main dishes and kid faves for both lunch and dinner .
While the menu is a demonstration of refined plates and quality ingredients , it was a pleasure to see a space where muddy boots fresh from an early spring day at the reserve were more than welcome !
The perfect way to build an appetite ( and tire out our smaller diners too !) we had happily meandered through the reserve . Up the steps to the tigers and lions , down again to rhinos and gibbons , and of course ending our jaunt watching the playful baby gorillas – a fantastic pre-dinner family outing !
Bursting with local seasonal produce – seasonal vegetables are picked fresh from their market garden near Howletts , while artisan local producers supply dairy , meat and fish – the menu is mouthwateringly tempting and offered a range of options for our eclectic mix of family diners ; kids , pescatarians and allergy affected !
For starters , the table opted for the Port Lympne smoked salmon , a heaving stack of delicate fish with pickled cucumber , caper butter and rye toast ; warming parsnip and apple soup with crème fraîche , a herby kick of sage crisps and fresh focaccia ; and my pick , the slow-cooked beef short rib served with a parsnip and potato rosti and some pecorino cream . The littlest Readys were more than happy with their mound of garlic dough balls too .
Mains continued the classic bistro offering : a beautiful grilled sea bass served with crab cake and cider , leek and mussel chowder ; a local Brogdale farm chicken breast served with a confit leg croquette , choucroute and moreish chicken gravy ; and a classic aged ribeye with Diane sauce , portobello mushroom and chips ; while the smalls made short work of a grilled chicken breast with veggies and fries .
Not needing pudding but happily relaxed amongst the cushions of the banquette and swayed by the dual chorus demands for the chocolate brownie from the kids ’ menu , we opted for a baked lemon tart and chocolate cake to share . The former a sharp , zingy delight , the latter a heaving take on a set chocolate fondant served with salted caramel sauce and honeycomb ice cream - both proving the perfect end to a family-friendly dining experience made all the better with a bottle of Simpson ’ s Rabbit Hole of course !
The Garden Room Port Lympne Reserve Aldington Road Lympne Hythe CT21 4LR www . aspinallfoundation . org / garden-room
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