Following a mammoth 10 month refurb of its slightly dilapidated former incarnation , the result is not only a ‘ ready-for-fine-dining ’ top notch kitchen space , complete with hidden prep kitchen in the basement , but also a warmly welcoming intimate dining room . Set amongst clean grey-green painted panelled walls , soft warm amber lighting and a beautiful parquet floor , you ’ ll find two cosy window-side tables , framed with bright cushions on the adjacent windowsillcome-seat , a scattering of tables for two or four , and a large chef ’ s-style table for eight situated closest to the open pass ; from which the restaurant ’ s five signature cocktails are mixed , statement wines , including a clutch of the South East ’ s finest , are poured , and , of course , dishes are meticulously plated .
Standing rightly proud in his debut dining room , Ben acknowledges that they absolutely could have squeezed in more tables , but this was never the goal “ who wants to go out to eat to sit on top of a stranger at a neighbouring table ? I hate that , why would we do it here ?”.
And it ' s this underpinning of creating a space that he , partner Raf and wife Portia would themselves wish to dine in , alongside a menu that appeals to a myriad of diners that enjoy great food without the often pretentiousness of a tasting menu furore , and just having the absolute right attitude to food , cookery , kitchen management and customer service , that the trio have struck restaurant atmosphere gold .
The menu too , is neat .
Begin with a bowl of potentially the plumpest olives I ’ ve seen outside of Europe ' s acclaimed markets , or a heaving slice of Staples Store sourdough served with a deeply smoked butter . Or both . There ’ s no rush or judgement here .
Starters , which hit around the £ 9.50 mark , offer four choices that tick not only the meat , fish , veggie , seasonal box , but also the beautifully presented and perfectly balanced flavour checklist too . Mr R opted for the ox tongue , served like a crispy shard of bacon atop gremolata with shavings of parsnip crisps . While my ham hock terrine offered a beautifully delicate strip of cured meat with a sharp celeriac remoulade and pan-finished sourdough and olive oil - think the poshest fried bread you ’ ve eaten and could happily eat all day long .
Mains continued the form . From the choice of four dishes Mr R opted for the lamb , a perfectly pink Doddington cut , offset with rich roasted garlic flavours , roasted celeriac and an anchovy dressing . My dish was a delicious , delicately rolled pork tenderloin , wrapped in pancetta , offset with a delicately spiced red cabbage puree and baby turnips . Both were complemented by our side of dauphinoise , in this incarnation an impeccable , finely sliced terrine ; deeply crispy on the outside with an utterly soft cream-infused middle . Just heaven .
Always one to opt for dessert , especially when dishes are so good , Mr R chose the Quince crème brûlée , rewarded with the satisfying crack of its perfectly fired sugar top and a heady gingerbread spiced set
cream beneath . My chocolate nemesis was actually more of a chocolate best friend . A divine set ganache with just the right balance of bitter / sweet flavour accompanied by crème fraîche and the cut through of citrus from fresh orange segments . There was never a battle to finish it , although I ’ d happily accept a rematch for this dessert forever .
Utterly committed not only to utilising the best seasonal ingredients the county has to offer , another benefit of its seaside and minutes-from-Quex location , but also to offering an accessible high-end dining experience in the type of restaurant you can simply just visit , stay , while away your evening , and most importantly beg to return to , Ben and Rafael have achieved what every budding restaurateur dreams of : a concept that is true reflection of themselves ; a showcase of classic wholesome , yet technical , dishes ; and all the rightful acclaim to boot .
Quince 39 Station Rd Westgate-on-Sea CT8 8QY quincewestgate . co . uk
quince _ westgate
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