FOOD + DRINK
CHEF ’ S TABLE , WEST MALLING MODERN BRITISH , INTIMATE DINING AT ITS BEST
BY SAMANTHA READY / PHOTOGRAPHY BY ADAM READY
THINK PINNACLE OF THE KENTISH CULINARY SCENE AND IMMEDIATELY FOODIE MINDS VENTURE EAST . AN EPICUREAN ADVENTURE THROUGH THE HISTORIC CITY OF CANTERBURY , IT ’ S MICHELIN-STARRED FAMED HAMLETS AND VILLAGES , TO THANET ’ S LATEST BUZZ STOP . BUT NO MORE . FOR THE MARKET TOWN OF WEST MALLING AND ITS TONBRIDGE-BASED COMPATRIOTS ARE BUILDING A WELL-DESERVED REPUTATION FOR SOME FRANKLY IMPRESSIVE COOKING , AND LEADING THE LATEST CHARGE IS BRADLEY REDDING ’ S CHEF ’ S TABLE .
Tucked just behind the main thoroughfare through the pretty town , the restaurant is housed in what was a tiny shopfront . Proffering the wonky charm that heritage buildings in Kent so effortlessly achieve , showcased further through a fresh lick of white paint against bold black framed windows lined with contemporary blinds .
They say that size matters . Don ’ t be fooled . The tiny dining home of Brad ’ s well-conceived , returnto-home venture isn ’ t about lacking in size , it ' s about delivering the most intimate of dining opportunities , once reserved to hidden away private dining rooms set amongst larger restaurant spaces . This allows those that have managed to nab one of the just 10 seats on offer to be front and centre of a quite unique dining experience - literally - as Redding ’ s pass , from which he and his sous chef seemingly effortlessly deliver a five-course taster menu , as well as snacks and petit fours , all with an ethos on natural and sustainable food , sourced and foraged from Kent ’ s best farmers and producers , is mere inches from the first table .
Fresh from a contemporary refurb , the space is dominated by an L-shaped bright yellow leather banquette seat accompanied with modern curved black and walnut bucket seats , with just four tables . The modern panelled wood wall is offset with narrow horizontal mirrors to bring a clever illusion of depth .
Taking our sought-after seats , my guest and I noted that the initial awkwardness of dining in such close proximity to an eclectic mix of strangers almost immediately dissipated . Perhaps through the incredibly warm , thorough and knowledgeable service of Redding ’ s front of house team , all of whom had a personal connection to the chef . Perhaps aided by the first glass of recommended wine pairings - delicious in their own right , something else entirely when enjoyed with their respective dish . And most definitely through the shared collective of ‘ mmms ’ that reverberated off the panelled walls after each and every dish .
From the first snap of the snacks - tapioca crisp which housed a goat ’ s cheese curd , the most divine butternut squash tart ( encased in the pastry of dreams ) and a sweet milk bread with crispy chicken skin butter so good we fought over the last morsels - through a journey of modern British cooking expertise , every dish was a triumph .
There was a warm Jersey Royal potato salad with dressed radicchio offset with the buttery , creamy , truffly comfort of a potato and chive velouté . A mosaic of cod loin with girolles and asparagus . The most delicate of beef rump fought for attention against braised ox cheek , burned kohlrabi , onion puree , red wine jus , and black garlic ketchup . As a dessert-lover , the appearance of pre-dessert is the dish you didn ’ t know you needed but then can ’ t live without . This occasion in the form of a meadowsweet set cream with cherry gel and lime and aniseed granita . Before the pud-proper arrived , 80 % dark chocolate delice with honeycomb and salted caramel ice cream .
The gifted branded box of citrus madeleines and miso toffee fudge petit fours was a final acclaimed flourish .
By the end of the immersive evening , every guest felt like old friends with the added perceived personal connection to Redding himself . While this is the chosen narrative behind his entire concept , which is also based on marrying classical flavours with a modern twist , it was of course a nuance for many who left not only feeling ecstatically elated from the dishes but also from experiencing a dining concept so rarely found in this format .
With a commitment to ensuring every guest ’ s experience is excellent , a beautifully delivered seasonal menu , and plans for special events such as vegan and wine evenings , the only challenge will be snaring a sought-after table !
Chef ’ s Table 46 King Street West Malling ME19 6QT www . chefstablekent . co . uk
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