© Patricia Niven
Although it could be , this isn ’ t going to be a musing simply on butter , though I must add that the mushroom was accompanied by four other flavours : tarragon , tomato , basil and smoked , which each sang as evidently with their namesake . The Gravetye experience overall is known for its exquisite combination of gastronomy and grounds , which are both as inventive and clever as each other and , once my gob has become less smacked by the quality of the homemade bread and butter alone , I looked up and took a long slow gaze across the garden which spread out like a sea of colour before me .
Originally planted in 1884 by writer and ‘ Father of the English Flower Garden ’, William Robinson , the gardens , of which there are 35 acres to explore , are the result of Robinson ’ s groundbreaking ideas on a more naturalistic style of wild gardening that he finetuned over 50 years at Gravetye .
The visual legacy left behind is the very antithesis of suppressed and is instead a natural kingdom that tumbles from busy rhododendron amid the bright pink pop of magnolia , to banks of wild Azaleas , self-sowers and tough perennials that collide to paint a picture ( on this occasion ) punctuated by the pop of yellow , red and orange tulips , but that adapts with each season . The wildflower meadows that meander throughout the grounds contrast beautifully with the ivy-clad formality of the main manor house whose Elizabethan edifice stands as a proud testament to its history .
Bringing these incredible outside scenes inside , The Dining Room at Gravetye – a Michelin-starred restaurant with a shining reputation – was the recipient of a 2018 new home , which has upgraded it even further . A triple-aspect glass extension brings the colour and life of the garden ’ s borders right to the diner ’ s table , and the room itself is bordered by ethereal hand-painted panels designed by renowned French artist , Claire Basler . A floral artist , Basler ’ s botanically inspired artwork expertly conveys both the force and fragility of individual flowers and plants so closely that the eye focuses on the flutter of a petal , or the arch of a single stem each highlighted by gestural strokes of background colour suggesting a gust of wind , the light from a sunbeam or the shade from a passing cloud . The setting is as elegant as every dish that graces its tables .
So inspiring is the natural wonder of The Dining Room , that Basler has this year designed and handpainted an entire bedroom – ceiling and all – in her inimitable style . Working with the contemporary but country feel that pervades the hotel , the refurbished ‘ Holly ’ bedroom is a symphony of colour and calm transposed from the view directly out of the window . Neither impressionism nor realism , delicate flecks of gold and silver leaf add depth to the magical and romantic scene that covers the walls – you don ’ t look at Basler ’ s art , you experience it , and this room is a masterpiece in which to lay your head after an equally sensational meal .
Yet another pièce de résistance ? The Kitchen Garden ; 1.5 acres of the most fruitful soil imaginable , all protected by a 12-foot elliptical sandstone wall and abundant with fresh fruit , vegetables and herbs including Rajka apples , blood red chard and sorel . Browsing the dinner menu over a refreshing grapefruit Collins , it was clear to see that the relationship between Michelin-starred head chef , George Blogg , and head gardener , Tom Coward is entirely symbiotic . What is grown in the garden is eaten in the restaurant to the incredible tune of 95 % and is the fundamental driving force behind Blogg ’ s inspiring seasonal menus .
I could write about the food at Gravetye Manor for weeks , let alone pages . About the way my green asparagus , wild garlic emulsion , quail egg and goats curd tasted all at once earthy , rich and light as air . About how my native lobster , spiced carrot and bisque hit sweet and tangy notes but with a deep essence of the sea . About my John Dory , squid , sweet cicely , gem lettuce and ink pasta that had a buttery , dulcet taste and a subtle kick of anise . And about the most delicious dessert of strawberries , Sarawak pepper , yoghurt , cucumber and celery , which of
course not being a chef I wasn ’ t sure would work , but which was a celebration of fresh flavours , fruit and woodsy spices . In the hands of Coward and Blogg ’ s joint mastery , every dish tasted even better than it looked , smelled or sang however , so please take heed – you must go .
Something Gravetye Manor gets spot on is that it moves with the times , but in a way that is considered and never conceited . Blogg ’ s steadfast devotion to his gastro-philosophy reflecting the natural environment - what ’ s growing , what ’ s being shot , what ’ s being picked – is one such example of this , as is their decision to commission an artist to handpaint an entire bedroom . And yet stepping into the 17-bedroom property , which was completed in 1598 , is still like stepping into a slice of the 16th-century . It ’ s so refreshing to be transported away from a world of smartphones and minimalist décor into one of newspapers , crackling log fires and ornate interiors carved from solid oak . Traditional , but not stuffy , Wi-Fi is available throughout , although I doubt you ’ ll use it , and there ’ s a flat-screen TV in your room , although I ’ d happily bet you won ’ t watch it .
With regard to the modern-day hotel experience , if experiential is the buzzword and the key is not to overdo it then Gravetye Manor is the gatekeeper . A stately home but softer , it changes with the seasons – both literally and figuratively – but never forgets its roots .
Gravetye Manor Vowels Lane West Hoathly Sussex RH19 4LJ 01342 810 567 www . gravetyemanor . co . uk
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