FOOD + DRINK
THE KENTISH HARE , BIDBOROUGH
BOASTING ESTEEMED KITCHEN EXPERIENCE AND A KNACK FOR CREATING WELCOMING SPACES TO SKILLFULLY , YET SIMPLY , DELIVER THE BEST OF LOCAL PRODUCE , THE TANNER BROTHERS ’ KENTISH BOLTHOLE IS ONE NOT TO BE MISSED . BY SAMANTHA READY
With a CV that includes stints at Le Gavroche , New York and France under the Roux brothers before returning to the England to open the 3 AA Rosette winning Kitley Hotel in Devon for Chris Tanner , as well as stints at the Rouxs ’ Lake Placid Lodge in New York and the two Michelin-starred Lettonie in Bath for brother James , the duo ’ s Bidborough-based gastropub opening in 2014 has , quite rightly , firmly established itself in the history of Kentish dining greats .
In the time it had taken me to finally secure a coveted table , the duo , and their super dedicated team , have not only secured two AA Rosettes but have also climbed the Gastropub of the Year leaderboard , catapulting from Best Newcomer in 2016 to a heady and well deserved No . 12 in the country-wide rankings this year .
Finally crossing the threshold of the light and bright country-core pub it was hard to believe that the premises was more wreck than treasure when the brothers saved it from developers nearly a decade ago . Often cited as their labour of love , the duo have managed to maintain a good balance between pub and restaurant with an almost 50:50 split between the front light wood , cosy , fireside bar and the rear light and thriving dining room , which opens out to a beautiful garden . Perfect for al fresco dining in the summer months , the soft throws emblazoned with the signature hare , which notably presides from logo to art works , cushions to hedge cutting , make the brave welcome during chillier days too . Inside , the clever layout leads to natural nooks and with it differentiated dining options , which of course adds to its appeal to the array of diners , families , ladies that lunch , romantic date night and friends celebrating , all clambering to secure a table .
Taking a mid-week table for lunch , there were two instant impressions : the thriving hubbub of a relaxed yet refined dining room offered the atmosphere many a restaurant strives and fails to achieve on busy weekend evenings ; and a menu masterclass in well-sourced , quality produce crafted with expertise .
Torn between a sundrenched yet-not-quite-summertime-temperature outside table and an indoor intimate corner , the latter won out . Simply set with spring daffodil buds , crisp white linen napkin , delicate glassware and offering pleasant views not only to the gardens beyond but to the efficient pass at the rear of the space , iK sales manager Jen and I were soon surrounding by heaving hunks of fresh sourdough , salted butter and plump juicy olives to keep us occupied as we perused the contemporary yet classic lunch menu .
Offering two courses for £ 28 or three for £ 32 , we were both lured by the confit Cotswold white chicken terrine to start , rewarded with the most delicate and perfectly formed circle of tender chicken morsels flavoured with leek and truffle , with a subtle yet welcome hit of wholegrain mustard and topped with watercress ; it was the perfect vision of spring .
Keen to venture in different directions for our mains , Jen opted for the Middlewhite pork belly , served with the richness and depth of tarka dhal , turnip and spinach . While my own pick , the Suffolk lamb shoulder , was a divine incarnation of braised lamb with confit garlic , served with a super smooth , super creamy mash , pea reduction , steamed cavolo nero and a pour-at-the-tableside , utterly moreish , lamb jus .
Puddings continue the delicious traditional dining journey here . Causing us the most indecision , we toyed between the sticky toffee pudding and Madagasgan vanilla cheesecake before eventually opting for the 70 % Saint Domingue chocolate delice ; a silky , bitter ganache of dreams offset with salted caramel ice cream which was subsequently declared by Jen as “ the best chocolate dessert I have ever eaten ”. My own pick crème brûlee offered another dessert winner .
The perfectly torched and crisp shell giving way to smooth , sweet , vanilla bean infused goodness , the white chocolate cookie accompaniment worthy of its own acclaim .
With a steadfast commitment to the brothers ’ trusted trio of fresh , seasonal and local ingredients , combined with a genuinely warm yet ultra efficient service and a dining space oozing with personality and charm , we were leaping with as much delight as a Kentish hare in springtime dining here , as we are sure you will .
The Kentish Hare is open Wednesday to Sunday offering food throughout the pub . Lunch is available from 12pm-2.30pm Wednesday to Saturday and 12pm-4pm on Sundays . Dinner is available Wednesday to Saturday from 5.45pm-9.30pm .
The Kentish Hare 95 Bidborough Ridge Bidborough Royal Tunbridge Wells TN3 0XB www . thekentishhare . com
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