Rosette plates and Michelin awards ( rightful homage to their astounding success ), we were swiftly made at home and left to peruse the signature cocktail and wine lists as well as the menus which offer both à la carte and taster options .
Opting for a Nelly ’ s Rhubarb Refresher ( Chase Rhubarb & Bramley Apple Gin , Chase Rhubarb Vodka , apple , lemon and egg white ), Jon smiled : “ Good choice and funny story , that ’ s actually named after one of our regulars ; he came up with that late on New Year ’ s Eve but usually only drinks pints , in fact he ’ s in tonight , sat at the bar …” It was evidently a good night for Nelly , and for the cocktail list , as well as further evidence of the lifeblood that runs through the pub .
Now , with the aforementioned awards and critical acclaim ( legendary reviewer Grace Dent led the hero-worship both pre-star and within just three months of opening ), it ’ s no wonder that expectations were running high when it came to the food here . As I said to Dan himself at the end of the evening in a slightly gushing , fan-girly way : “ We knew it was going to be good , but believe me . It . Was . Really . Good .”
Regardless of whether you consider yourself a foodie , like a friend this year who has made it a mission to ‘ collect stars ’ in celebration of a big birthday , enjoy dining out , or are just simply curious , the absolute best way to experience a restaurant , especially one with a kitchen team of this calibre , is with the taster menu . £ 85 per person here with an additional £ 75 for the wine flight ; trust me , it ’ s worth every penny .
Showcasing the best local produce , it begins with ‘ Snacks ’. Delicate morsels such as a crisp potato slice topped with octopus terrine ; smoked cods roe ; and the frankly insane bacon croquettes , which came served in an intricate glass terrarium to herald their majesticness .
The bread course follows . Moreish soda bread from their own Irish family recipe ; caramelised onion milk loaf ; churned-in-house butter ; and a divine , rich , pork-fat Marmite butter - heaven - and we had only just begun .
The following five courses continued to deliver . ‘ Parfait ’ delivered the smooth richness of duck liver offset with redcurrant and Sauternes . The warm doughnuts however , will live rent free in my mind for eternity …
‘ Scallop ’ was a wobble moment as it was served raw . The worry short-lived as the delicate mollusc delighted the palate with shards of apple and a rich smoked butter emulsion . It offered that moment of contemplation of whether I could get away with licking the dish clean .
The ‘ Monkfish ’ was my personal star of the show , served shellfish free for me and with an indulgent clam chowder for Mr R , the belly was melt-in-the mouth delicious , offset with white balsamic gel , baby onions , baby turnips and a Madeira sauce . The BBQ tail tempura however was mind blowing .
‘ Guinea Fowl ’ delivered a perfectly rolled breast with chicken and truffle mousse aside stuffed morels . There were delicate hints of white garlic , richness from the foie gras sauce and welcome texture courtesy of white asparagus spears . The confit leg tartlet further evidence of the kitchen ’ s attention to every detail .
Dessert , always my favourite course , also offered Mr R some additional dining excitement as the Fordwich Arms ’ ‘ Snickers ’ had made a triumphant menu return that week . It was promptly devoured , rich caramel ganache and all . I had the pleasure of the ‘ Rhubarb ’, a delightful rhubarb tart – showcasing that pastry flair again – offset with a beautiful honey cream . A sneaky return of the warm doughnuts , this time dusted with cinnamon sugar (“ just because you
loved them ”) again showcased the effortlessness of the service . Not only feeling part of the furniture , if the food kept up this pace I ’ d be sleeping it off on the banquette …
Tempted to forgo the ‘ Petit Fours ’, and then realising the ridiculousness of that fleeting thought , I was rewarded with the heady zest of the lemon jelly , another sweet doughnut this time filled with honey cream , and Fordwich ’ s renowned gold caramel bar , which is so good it comes in its own treasure chest .
Showcasing explemplary modern British cooking and an understanding that powerful flavour can be oh-so-subtly delivered , all further enhanced by wonderful service , the Fordwich Arms ’ team , Dan and Natasha front and centre , should be truly proud . Not just of their exciting and passionate cooking - the creative and intricate approach of each dish harnessed by head chef Keiron Bellerby - and their staunch commitment to local provenance , but also by the fact that they have created a place , an ambience and a welcome that is truly a rare find .
Or perhaps not . As they have done the seemingly impossible ( it isn ’ t ; it ' s simply testament to just how good the Smiths really are ) and have replicated this just miles down the road at sister opening the Bridge Arms .
Long may their foodie charge continue … I , for one , am along for the ride .
Fordwich Arms King Street Fordwich CT2 0DB www . fordwicharms . co . uk
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