KENT SUCCESS IN
ESTRELLA DAMM TOP 50 GASTROPUBS 2022
FOOD + DRINK
NOW IN ITS 13TH YEAR , THE TOP 50 GASTROPUBS LIST RANKS THE UK ’ S BEST GASTROPUBS ACCORDING TO VOTES FROM MORE THAN 400 GASTROPUB OWNERS , FOOD CRITICS AND OTHER INDUSTRY EXPERTS . WITH ENTRIES FROM AROUND THE COUNTRY THERE WAS YET MORE SUCCESS FOR KENT ’ S TOP GASTROPUBS , CLAIMING FIVE OF THE TOP 50 PLACES FOR 2022 .
© Philip Harris
THE SPORTSMAN THE FORDWICH ARMS
No 6 . The Sportsman , Whitstable
Leading the way for Kent is The Sportsman – widely acknowledged as one of the best gastropubs in the UK for several years , heading the Top 50 Gastropubs list in 2015 , 2016 , 2018 , 2019 and 2021 . Sportsman chefpatron Stephen Harris is “ obsessed ” with ‘ terroir ’ – the idea that a restaurant ’ s menu should religiously reflect its surrounding geography , history and produce – and as such , produce served at The Sportsman is sourced almost exclusively from the land surrounding the pub .
Harris , a completely self-taught chef , who abandoned a high-flying career in the City to open his “ grotty boozer by the sea ”, picks seaweed from The Sportsman ’ s adjoining beach , makes his own salt from the sea , and uses meat from the bountiful farms of the Seasalter area .
Harris ’ s slip sole grilled in seaweed butter is famous and a must-try for any visitor . Although the chef himself has repeatedly expressed his dislike for the idea of ‘ signature dishes ’, this would be his . It ’ s the purest expression of what makes the Sportsman fantastic : simplicity , thoughtfulness and , most importantly , it is delicious .
Previous menu highlights have included roast saddle of Monkshill farm lamb with mint sauce ; thornback ray with brown butter , razor clams and sherry vinegar dressing ; braised brill fillet with mussel and bacon tartare ; chilled chocolate mousse cake with raspberries and raw cream ; rhubarb soufflé with rhubarb ripple ice cream ; and summer fruit salad with lemon verbena ice cream .
Commenting on the recognition Phil Harris , who runs the restaurant alongside his brother Stephen said : “ We are delighted to be included in the list again . It is always nice to get recognition , and we never take it for granted - you are only as good as the last meal you served .
“ If it wasn ’ t for the dedication of our staff – some of whom have been with us an awfully long time – we wouldn ’ t have been here for 23 years . It is that consistency that is terribly important . It requires diligence and sticking to standards , and not compromising . If you cannot do something perfectly , don ’ t do it .”
No 8 . The Fordwich Arms , Canterbury
Having earned his kitchen stripes in some of the UK ’ s top restaurants ( think working for the likes of Jason Atherton as well as a five-year stint at the Clove Club ), chef-patron Daniel Smith was voted The Observer ’ s Young Chef of the Year 2016 and has been central to the gastropub ’ s culinary successes ever since .
Part of that success , also driven by his undeniable skills , is down to Smith ’ s use of local Kentish ingredients , which are sourced directly from nearby farms and producers . But it doesn ’ t all hang on Smith ’ s shoulders , as the pub has an outstanding team behind it , with each person highly skilled .
Such skill has driven the pub up the list over the years , from 42 in 2019 to 17 in 2020 and 16 in 2021 . It has risen significantly again this year and now sits proudly in the top 10 for the first time in a list which also sees a No . 88 entry for sister opening The Bridge Arms .
The gastropub sits next to the River Stour , which is easily viewed from the terrace dining space . Dishes are plated and served in a relaxed and welcoming style , ideal for a lunch or dinner at any time of the year , whatever the occasion .
Speaking of food , guests can choose from a plethora of food menus including à la carte , tasting menus and two vegetarian tasting menus . Dishes you ’ re likely to see on the à la carte menu have included rock oysters for snacks , raw Orkney scallop with apple , kohlrabi and vadouvan spices for starters and roast saddle of Chart Farm Sika venison with chestnut , celeriac and spiced fig for main , with many more dishes to select from .
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