FOOD + DRINK
THE NEPALESE GEM HIDDEN AT THE HEART OF MERSHAM-LE-HATCH ’ S COURTYARD
KOYLA
KOYLA IS ONE OF THOSE PLACES THAT YOU ’ D BE FORGIVEN ONCE FOR NOT KNOWING IT EXISTED . BUT ONCE YOU DISCOVER THE SECRET , HAVE SALIVATED COURTESY OF A PRE- VISIT INSTAGRAM SCROLL AND THEN FINALLY CROSSED THE THRESHOLD TO SAMPLE THEIR ENTICING MENU , REST ASSURED IT WILL BE TOP OF YOUR DINING LIST … BY ASHLEIGH BRITTEN
Welcomed into the bright , bustling , glass-fronted dining room , KOYLA feels immediately inviting . Purposely far-removed from the interiors often associated with Nepalese cuisine , it ’ s tasteful with touches of luxury ; the sort of place you could enjoy dinner with girl friends , a family meal with the kids , or a romantic treat for two . My guests and I took our seats in the window at the front of the restaurant . Overlooking the outdoor terrace area , it ’ s a summertime hotspot that you can only imagine will be heaving when the sun ’ s out . Shortly after , menus arrived courtesy of our attentive waiter , and we were asked the all important question regarding drinks . I opted for the house white , the Sula , from India and it was suitably thirst quenching , especially good for a Friday afternoon and the perfect accompaniment for the feast I was about to encounter .
The inspired menu is the brainchild of awardwinning and locally recognised executive chef Shanker Pandey , noted for his very successful Everest Inn in Ashford . Unlike his other establishments however , the KOYLA menu steers away from the conventional indian-fusion influences , the dishes are innovative and modern , and showcase the best of Nepali flavours ; flavours that we are all intrigued to try .
A short while after our order was taken the small plates arrived . I contributed to the table with my choice of chicken momo , and boy , it did not disappoint . These delicately constructed parcels are absolute heaven ; filled with chestnut and served on a bed of tomato chutney . Fresh , plump and everything a dumpling should be . Around the table we also stuck into several other flavoursome dishes including the lime poleko prawns , a favourite amongst diners so we are told , and the unforgettable pani puri ; round hollow wheat balls , served with a variety of fillings containing potato , chickpea or mint and chilli infused water . A very hands-on experience , where we all took great joy in filling our balls to the brim and consuming them in one ; a bit like a shot , but way better !
Next onto the mains , and this instance , I went for the veggie option recommended by chef Panday himself , katar peas ; jackfruit cooked with peas , ginger and tomato and served with a garam masala inspired sauce bursting with flavour – this is innovative cooking . Although mine was veggie , I did take great pleasure in sampling the table ’ s other offerings , the choo lamb , tender pieces of slow-cooked lamb in a mouthwatering sauce ; and the KOYLA signature dish , The True Biryani – nothing like any biryani I have ever experienced , this dish originates from the Palpa district and is so beautifully presented .
The dishes are faultless , the service impeccable and the setting just perfect .
For the first time , chef Pandey has created an experience that pays homage to his childhood and native cuisine . KOYLA gives Nepalese food the chance to ‘ stand its own ground ’, and you really should experience it !
KOYLA is open Tuesday to Sunday and also offers an accommodating takeaway and delivery menu featuring a handful of other classic dishes , available to order via the website , as well as a very reasonably priced set lunch menu on a Friday , Saturday and Sunday served from 1 until 4pm .
www . koylakent . co . uk koylakent
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