THE TOLL BRIDGE RESTAURANT & BAR , SANDWICH
FOOD + DRINK
THINK SANDWICH AND THE IMMEDIATE CONNOTATIONS ARE SURELY PRETTY WINDING LANES , STUNNING PERIOD PROPERTIES AND THE HISTORIC SWING BRIDGE OVER THE RIVER STOUR . SO PERHAPS WE ’ LL FORGIVE YOU FOR NOT INITIALLY ADDING BOLD FLAVOURSOME BBQ FLAVOURS UNDERPINNING AN IMAGINATIVE MENU LED BY A MICHELIN-STARRED CHEF ; THE LATEST ADDITION TO THE SANDWICH DINING SCENE SET TO TAKE KENT ’ S TASTEBUDS TO NEW HEIGHTS . BY SAMANTHA READY
Situated adjacent to its namesake bridge , with unsurpassed views of the waterway beyond , The Toll Bridge Restaurant & Bar is certainly building a reputation as big as the bold flavours on its inspired menu . Purchased at the height of the pandemic by Jez and Laurence Brown , the undertaking is a truly family affair . The uncle / nephew duo joined by wife / aunty Sheena , who relinquished her former career in logistics to manage the restaurant full time , set about an impressive renovation of the 1980 ’ s fisherman ’ s wharf building , which has an air that makes it feel older than its years , complete with a contemporary finish to reflect the new owners ’ and chef Shane Hughes ’ approach to modern British BBQ cooking and dining . And it ’ s not just a local affair when it comes to ownership , ‘ our meat comes from the butcher in town , our veggies from just around the corner ,’ Sheena enthusiastically explained when asked about what makes The Toll Bridge so much a part of the local community . Yet while its heart and soul is local , the big flavours that underpin the menu are a truly global affair ; taking depth and knowledge from deep American smokehouse principals and heady Korean BBQ techniques .
With stints at Tunbridge Wells-based Thackerays and Wales ’ notable Ynyshir amongst his acclaimed kitchen experience , Hughes ’ Toll Bridge menu is less fine-dining , more damn fine-flavours , with marinating and smoking taking centre stage . Yes the refinement of flavour-led plates that comes from working in Michelin-starred kitchens was evident across the dishes , but here Hughes has been granted free reign to go big , on portion size and on taste , with smoked and BBQ meats and fish ; including five-hour smoked pork ribs and chicken slowly smoked over beer ; cooked outside and on the indoor kitchen ’ s Big Green Egg all year round .
Shown to our windowside seat , Sheena explained that their focus is on ‘ offering great service and great food at an affordable price ’ as she talked us through the menu which takes diners from madefor-sharing starters ; the bao buns heaving with crispy pork belly and sriracha mayo were heavenly ; the pizzetta ( we opted for smoked garlic bbq sauce with buffalo mozzarella ) a bread-lover ’ s dream ; our neighbouring diner ’ s trio of sliders evidently large enough to feed the table ; through to the ‘ grilled and smoked ’ main events .
Overcome with the choices , think beer can chicken , beef brisket and their signature ribs , Sheena sensed our indecision ; ‘ opt for the mixed grill , it ’ s delicious and has a bit of everything ’ and slightly tongue-incheek , ‘ it looks brilliant for Insta too !’
She wasn ’ t wrong !
Mr R ’ s own BBQ grill ( complete will coals ) arrived boasting a mini cheeseburger with homemade chutney ; a signature rib with bourbon honey glaze ; a smoked chicken thigh ; butcher ’ s sausage and side of crispy rosemary salt fries . It ’ s fanfare only slightly diminished by the arrival of my frankly large-enoughto-share-but-why-would-you beef short rib . Falling from the bone and doused in flavour , it was , frankly , immense . The grilled pineapple glazed with Mount Gay rum was a great additon , the side of cheesy mash even better .
Plentiful , flavoursome , moreish and too good to stop ( when I probably really should have !), dining here led to a rare occurance of me turning down dessert . Mr R , never one to be defeated , was however swayed by the Paris brest to be rewarded with a heaving choux bun full of delicate hazelnut cream , topped with chocolate sorbet – dessert level complete !
With a secluded courtyard perfect for al fresco dining , a first floor dining room with spectacular views , cosy nooks perfect for date nights and an outdoor barstool dining for the warmer months , as well as a host of regular music and food events planned , the future ahead looks as tantalising Hughes ’ s cooking .
The Toll Bridge Restaurant & Bar 7 The Quay Sandwich CT13 9RU thetollbridge . co . uk
thetollbridge
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