Stock ’ s aim is to create a welcoming , easygoing and comfortable space for punters and diners alike . His approach is no-nonsense , rustic , simple cooking . The dining room is small , there ’ s space for roughly 16 covers by the fireplace , yet homely . The menu , a chalkboard above the open fire visible beneath the beamed ceiling-strung hops ( designed by Billy ’ s mother from The Wildflower Barn ), offers just three starters , three mains and three dessert options . If you ’ re lucky , as we were , you may visit on a day when he decides to add one of his legendary pies as a bonus pick . As our neighbouring table excitedly interrupted Freya ’ s careful explanation of the menu , murmuring in appreciation for the dishes that they had travelled from their main London base to their Kentish bolthole specifically to devour , it became apparent that the menu had been very carefully curated and is a showcase for locally sourced produce . Expect fish from Rye , bread baked by a man in nearby Littlebourne and a host of ingredients that appear as if by magic in the doorway , in a way that only village life allows , such as homegrown ceps from a neighbouring garden .
When we finally met , he apologised for only being able to speak to me as I was preparing to leave , the fact that he runs his kitchen single-handedly , such is his dedication to his craft , it was incredible that he could leave the pass at all . It was clear that he is excited , driven and relentless in his commitment to his new venture and has already added his own touch . From spit-fired whole chickens on a Sunday to the myriad of Kentish brewers now on tap , repeat diners are chalking up as frequently as his everchanging daily specials .
His chalk-scrawled menu ultimately depends on what ingredients he had stumbled upon that day . Ours boasted the highly recommended quail ; roasted whole and served in its own juices with a delicious garlic-laden , flavour-packing alioli . His ‘ fried potatoes ’, ‘ chef-fy ’ crisp golden nuggets of layered rosti-esque potato chunks , are worth the trip alone . The daily pie , for which we had procured the last one available ( such is its popularity - it was only lunchtime ), was a throwback to the pastry my nan would have made ; buttery , soft , golden and encasing the simple pleasures of chicken and leek . Desserts continued the theme , heady poached pears with simple vanilla ice cream and an ingenious brown butter and honey ice cream sandwich . It was simple , home-cooked food underpinned with technical flair .
The result of combining simple food pleasures with an inviting space of course means that Stock will be able to bridge the gap between friendly welcoming local and destination dining . All guests able to benefit from being encapsulated in the relaxed , informal space ; at home aside the crackling log burner and Tudor features in the chillier months or free to enjoy Kentish village life from the large garden and outdoor bar come spring .
Gutted to have missed the New Year ’ s Day hangover fried chicken ( which followed a six-course feasting sharing menu featuring the likes of chicken liver parfait pear and hazelnut ; brill fennel and brown crabmeat hollandaise ; and braised lamb chops and that aioli the evening before ), it ’ ll have to be the rotisserie chicken and fried potatoes for my return … unless of course pie is on the menu .
The Rose Inn The Green Wickhambreaux Canterbury CT3 1RQ www . theroseinn . pub
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