FOOD + DRINK
CHARMING , RUSTIC AND BURSTING WITH PASSION
THE ROSE INN , WICKHAMBREAUX
LURED BY THE QUAINT VILLAGE SETTING , THE LIFE AWAY FROM THE HUSTLE AND BUSTLE OF LONDON ’ S HOSPITALITY RAT-RACE AND BY THE OPPORTUNITY TO MAKE HIS OWN MARK IN THE KITCHEN AND THE PUB , BILLY STOCK HAS COMMITTED TO BRINGING A NEW LEASE OF LIFE TO THE ROSE INN WHILE STILL MAINTAINING ITS COMMUNITY ROOTS . BY SAMANTHA READY
At just 30 years old , chef , and now publican , Billy Stock ’ s kitchen CV reads like a who ’ s who of London culinary must-trys . Stints in the likes of St John , The Marksman , Hill & Szrok and Rochelle Canteen at The ICA have undoubtedly influenced his approach to produce-led , technically brilliant , beautifully created dishes , which have ( thankfully for us ) now crossed the county line from the great capital to the 14th-century inn set in the tiny village of Wickhambreaux , just outside of Canterbury . Was it pandemic-driven wanderlust , this year ’ s milestone birthday , or his own self-proclaimed love for a good beer and good company that led the city chef to quiet country life ? It turns out it was all three .
‘ It must be quite different here ?’ My first question when I finally managed to tear him away from the pass , visible from my window and fireside table , at which he worked relentlessly during our visit . ‘ Yeah , it ’ s different ’ and with a laugh and resigned acknowledgement of just how monumentous a change he has made in his culinary endeavors and indeed pace of life : ‘ it ’ s very different , more different than I actually realised it would be .’ But he loves it .
The Rose Inn itself of course has a history to tell , marking one of Kent ’ s notable inns dating back centuries . Set amongst some truly spectacular period houses , it is , first and foremost , the village ‘ local ’.
Hostess / barmaid / waitress / fire-stoker ( although the latter by her own admittance is not her forte ), Freya lives along the street and has worked there under different landlords over the years in between stints studying and travelling , her sister helps out on busier days . As we sat to enjoy lunch a myriad of local walkers , families and a few dogs popped in to grab a late afternoon pint and some bar snacks . ‘ So what ’ s changed ?’ I asked casually , ‘ in terms of the building it , thankfully , still feels the same . But in terms of the food , what Billy is doing is really quite special .’
And it shows .
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