insideKENT Magazine Issue 116 - December 2021 | Page 135

Flair bartenders offer up everything from crisp glasses of English sparkling wine ( Kentish of course !) to creatively made and delicious tasting cocktails from the signature menu . The cleverly designed space also offers accessible informal dining ; open for lunch and dinner , the menu includes regular favourites fish and chips , chicken Milanese and McLeish ’ s acclaimed venison pie .
Aperitifs finished , six mini tuna tacos devoured , and keen to explore ( and eat !) we ventured through to the dining space , which is quite a change from the buzzy , low lit brasserie area . The characterful windows and half-wood panelled walls pay tribute to the building ' s history , but the cool colour palette and shapely lights give it that slight modern edge . The space feels traditional , but sophisticated , which suits the menu and ethos .
Taking our seats at an elegant round table covered in crisp white linen , it was impressive to see how popular this place is even on a midweek night .
Gazing over the á-la-carte menu , while devouring endless amounts of to-die-for bread and butter , I was quick to decide on my starter - the grilled South- Coast mackerel . An artistic plate ( almost too good to eat ) bursting with colour and heaps of flavour , the marinated beetroot and horseradish mayo paired perfectly with the fish ; this dish is a spectacular culinary creation . The chicken raviolo , the pick of two of my dining companions , offered the most delicate pasta shell fit to bursting with tender roast chicken and the heady sweet richness of caramelised onions . The last dish to appear packed the most sensory punch , filling the table with scents of pumpkin as my guest devoured the veloute accompanied by feta-filled deep fried samosa .
McLeish ’ s cooking combines a delicate attention to detail with fabulous flavours ; the perfect balance of quantity and quality ; the dishes are generous , exquisite and satisfy with every mouthful . The difficult main course decision resulted in a toss up between the roast bavette of beef , braised oxtail with strozzapreti or the Josper grilled Iberico pork shoulder ; being a sucker for a pork dish , and perhaps not eating it as much as I ’ d desire , it just had to be ; especially as the accompanying Roscoff onion tatin was calling my name . And , it did not disappoint ; the perfect shade of medium rare , the pork was delightfully tender and full of flavour , rich and slightly buttery . It melts in the mouth , even better when paired with the onion tatin and salt baked celeriac – a taste sensation . Helpfully one of my dining guests opted for the beef , presented with the most delicate slices of bravette which gave way to the braised oxtail , the star of the dish and the table . Keen to experience the opportunities the menu presents , my last dining companion opted for the fish . The beautifully presented fillet of pan-fried Gigha halibut was a taste and dish sensation , aided by the flavours of roast Jerusalem artichokes , steamed leeks and Chanterelle emulsion . The additional side order of crispy Anna potatoes with aged parmesan wasn ’ t completely necessary given the portion sizes , but oh my , this modernised classic will fulfill anyones potato needs ; golden , crispy potato topped with a mountain of shaved parmesan , I mean , what more could you want ?
Room for dessert ? Probably not , but it ’ d be rude not to . While the passing cheese had caught my attention through the entirety of the meal , I eventually opted for the caramelised Pink Lady apples , a dessert fit for a queen ; an architectural masterpiece carefully crafted with symmetrical layers of sesame seed mille-feuille intercepted with smooth vanilla cremeux and caramelised apple sorbet . This epic flavour combination is something I ’ d been yet to try , and what a success , every component complementing one another – apple and sesame apparently is a thing , and one that I won ’ t be forgetting any time soon .
With a unique ambience , a refined but playful take on classic European cooking ( starting from just £ 51.95 for three courses ) this is a place we will certainly be hurrying back to .
Chapter One Farnborough Common Locksbottom BR6 8NF 01689 854848 info @ chapteronerestaurant . co . uk www . chapteronerestaurant . co . uk
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