FOOD + DRINK
WATER LANE
BY SAMANTHA READY
AS HIDDEN GEMS GO , WATER LANE CERTAINLY LIVES UP TO ITS TITLE . BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED IN THE OUTSKIRTS OF HAWKHURST , DOWN A PRETTY HEDGEROW-LINED LANE SURROUNDED BY MEADOW FLOWERS , YOU ’ D BE FORGIVEN FOR INITIALLY THINKING THAT YOU WERE HEADING BACK TO SCHOOL , RATHER THAN FOR LUNCH AT THE FRESHEST CONCEPT IN KITCHEN GARDEN DINING TO ARRIVE IN KENT , SPEARHEADED BY THE NEW CUSTODIANS OF THE IDYLLIC WALLED GARDEN , NICK SELBY AND IAN JONES .
Situated adjacent to St Ronan ’ s School , you need to ignore your initial reluctance to exit the road onto the school driveway and simply follow the signs to the right . Trust in the directions ( and the sat nav !) and you ’ ll soon find yourself transported to the breathtaking wonder that is the Water Lane Walled Garden ; made yet more remarkable by its already carefully curated transformation over just a few short lockdown months , and by the passion-driven plans for the long-term project here , that will embrace the best of flora , produce and experience .
Driven by the desire to leave behind the big smoke and branch out ( no pun intended ) to the countryside with a flower-filled oasis , the reality of a somewhat derelict strip of land needing heaps of TLC , as presented by a visionary Ian last year , was not quite what Nick had envisioned . Fast-forward through the rollercoaster ride of initially losing out on the space , only to realise how much they both did , in fact , want to realise its potential , to finding it unexpectedly reavailable , they finally secured the deal ‘ on the 17th May , or perhaps the day before to be exact ’ and then the hard work began .
Aside from some sterling efforts to reinvigorate the gardens with a shared focus on planting vegetables , fruits and herbs alongside beautiful flowers and wild meadows , and a long term plan to revive the beautiful Victorian greenhouses and potting-shed-esq buildings including the opening of their artisan shop ; the initial plan was to create an outside table and umbrella style informal dining space , to showcase their culinary concept . A slightly windy March day , and the arrival onsite to find their polytunnel flapping away in the wind , was the catalyst lightbulb moment to repurpose the existing hardstanding with a bespoke open sided tent , and in that twist of wind-driven fate , the perfectly fitting Water Lane dining concept was realised .
Taking our seats ( which were sustainable made and delightfully comfortable !) aside the soft round curves of the canopy , which instantly lend themselves to a natural picture frame for the gardens beyond , we were presented with the day ’ s menu . Printed with eco-inks , date stamped to prove its lifecycle , and with the clever touches of the day ’ s weather and produce information , the menu is as clever as it is simple . Dishes are , perhaps somewhat expectantly , driven by the produce grown just inches from the diners ; who seemed to be appearing in droves from curiosity-driven , word-of-mouth recommendations . But in a perfectly-timed example of just how fresh the dishes are , Nick whizzed by , returning with another bounty of plucked-from-their-stems produce ready for kitchen prep .
Amongst the selection of small starters , lighter dishes and larger plates , some carefully selected teas , expertly curated wines , and some rather delectable fresh cakes , tarts and ice-cream , ( yet more evidence of Ian and Nick ’ s formidable wealth of food and horticultural knowledge developed from their previous business , Melrose and Morgan , a grocery store and kitchen with shops in London ’ s Primrose Hill and Hampstead ) and driven not-least by the views of the open wood fire , we opted for the flatbread ; whole plaice ; and the classic chicken Caesar salad .
The bread was a bouncy , soft , wood-charred delight of rich tomato sauce and rich , creamy goat ’ s curd . The plaice , simply prepared with butter and herbs , was elevated with the rich charred sweet and spice hits of it ’ s wood-fired peppers . Whilst the salad not only offered the freshest leaves possible , but also a rich home-made dressing and added depths of flavour from its roasted chicken thigh . Our side orders of garden and herb leaf salad and punched potatoes , whilst perhaps not needed due to the bountiful plates of our main picks , were of course totally justified for their fresh deliciousness and moorish indulgence respectively .
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