LONDON
SPARKLING CONVERSATIONS AND TIME-STOPPING VIEWS
ST PANCRAS BY SEARCYS
RENOWN FOR THEIR ‘ COLLECTION ’ OF RESTAURANTS AND BARS IN ICONIC SURROUNDINGS , THINK THE GHERKIN , BLENHEIM PALACE AND THE PUMP ROOM IN BATH , SEARCYS ’ ST PANCRAS CHAMPAGNE BAR AND BRASSERIE OFFERING IS A CLEVER MIX OF TRADITIONAL GLAMOUR AND CONTEMPORARY DRINKING AND DINING , ENCAPSULATED IN AN ELEGANT HOMAGE TO THE GOLDEN ERA OF TRAVEL .
BY SAMANTHA READY
Located just minutes from Kent ’ s high speed platforms in the heart of the international station , and to the backdrop of Tracey Emin ’ s iconic and poignant artwork “ I want my time with you ”, the offering here is an elegant departure from the usually bustling station below and provides the perfect spot to start a day or evening out on the town , for a predeparture or arrival toast , for a refined date , or indeed for a celebratory gathering – where no excuse for celebration is needed .
Designed by Martin Brudnizki ( the Swedish-born interior architect renowned for his elegant and opulent spaces ; The Ivy refurb , Le Caprice and Scarfes bar also bear his signature touch ) both the interior brasserie dining room ; think private booths lit by vintage-esq lighting and walls adjourned with old station clocks , and the elegant open space of the concourse-based Champagne bar ; delicate pale blue leather bar stools , gleaming metallic edging and Searcys-embossed leather dining booths , reminiscent of first class luxury train carriages and complete with a ‘ press for Champagne ’ buzzer no less , offer guests a myriad of drinking and dining options .
As expected from the founders of National Champagne Week and from Britain ’ s oldest catering company ( Searcys was founded by John Searcy in 1847 ), Champagne and service feature highly on the menu here . Speaking of menus , aside from the Champagne menu ; which proffers a lead in from partner Ruinart ’ s brut , blanc de blancs and rosé , Searcys ’ own stable selected cuvée and rosé and a selection of grandes marques from the likes of Veuve Clicquot , Lanson and Drappier , as well as an English Sparkling thrown in for good measure ; guests have a range of dining options to choose from .
From Sunday brunch to daily market menus , small plate sharers all carefully chosen to compliment Champagne flights to an exquisitely presented afternoon tea in its own vintage-inspired suitcase , the menus are a showcase of contemporary British dining with a 20 ’ s inspired twist .
We began as only you should here , with a glass of bubbles . Our waiter ’ s recommended Searcys ’ brut and rosé left us tempted to just keep pressing the bell ! We were only distracted by the arrival of a stillwarm-from-the-oven rosemary and potato sourdough loaf and a dish of beautiful salt and pepper squid with spicy Marie Rose sauce .
The bar menu offers a host of classic dishes ; smoked salmon , confit of lamb , risotto , sirloin , and of course the quintessentially British fish and chips , but it was the allure of the Searcys burger and of the Creedy Carver chicken pie that won out for our main course pick .
Heaving with minced steak , oozing with cheese , bacon and sauce , and nestled in its brioche bun the burger would normally have won out ; however , the appearance of the gloriously golden pie proved to be the ultimate showstopper . A firm-favourite with international visitors and regulars alike , the pastry was a masterclass of buttery soft flakiness , giving way to delicate chicken breast , tarragon sauce and mushrooms . With a jug of delicately spiced gravy it was promptly fought over and devoured !
Keen to continue the fizz , we opted of course for a third course . The lemon tart continued the pastry showcase with its short base and delicately smooth lemon filling offset with fresh raspberries and crème fraiche ; whilst the tiramisu parfait offered a welcome departure from the ‘ cake-stodge ’ instead delivering all of the classic coffee and liquor flavours in a cold dome of happiness , helped along with a delicious Bailey ’ s ice cream .
Ironically for a bar set beneath the clock and surrounded by departure boards , it was utterly easy ( and utterly encouraged ) to lose track of time here ( aided perhaps by that bell …). Efficient , elegant , welcoming , and refined , St Pancras by Searcys deserves to be your next dining destination .
St Pancras by Searcys Grand Terrace Upper Concourse St Pancras International Station London N1C 4QL stpancrasbysearcys . co . uk
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