FOOD + DRINK
© Helen Mulvaney
FISH UNION :
FROM DAY BOAT TO PLATE IN LESS THAN 24 HOURS
WHEN THE PANDEMIC HIT THE LONDON HOSPITALITY SCENE HARD , CHEFS RICHARD KIRKWOOD AND ANDY ROBERTS OVERCAME THE INITIAL SHOCK OF REDUNDANCY TO QUICKLY REALISE THAT THEIR LEVEL OF EXPERIENCE , EXTENSIVE LIST OF CONTACTS AND SHARED PASSION FOR FISH PRESENTED AN OPPORTUNITY TO BRING RESTAURANT-QUALITY SEAFOOD DIRECT TO LOCALS IN SUBURBAN KENT . BY GWEN LARDNER & SAMANTHA READY
Fiercely enthusiastic about seafood as a healthy and flavoursome alternative to meat and boasting over 30 years ’ experience between them ( including stints at some of London ’ s best known restaurants including The Ivy , J . Sheekey and Wright Brothers .) Chislehurst-based Richard and Andy not only appreciated the logistical sense of being based closer to home during the pandemic , but also of the opportunity afforded by Chislehurst ’ s Kent / London border location that enabled them to make use of their existing suppliers . A pop-up temporary fish stall outside the local pub was the last assurance needed for the duo of the demand for a chef-led fishmongers in the area .
After considerable investment to completely refurbish and equip a previously empty shop unit , Fish Union opened in November 2020 . Behind the unmissable bright blue facade on Royal Parade and to a backdrop of striking shop design courtesy of Kent-based interior designers , Guthrie & Kirkwood , is a novel concept of traditional wet fishmonger with an upmarket seafood and champagne bar under the same roof .
Customers now clamber not only for the restaurant quality seafood that arrives from boat to counter in less than 24 hours , but also for a prime spot on one of the 16 bar stools or a space on the outside terrace .
Both chefs are hands on , serving customers and willingly sharing their expertise on how best to prepare and cook fish . Their aim is to create the ultimate seafood shopping experience for fish lovers and adventurous types looking to try something new .
The menu changes daily based on what ’ s coming in off the boats . Nothing is bought in or pre-prepared and fish is cured and smoked onsite .
All the dishes are fastidiously fresh , paired with simple , tasty sides such as tomato salad or minted new potatoes . The ingredients are defiantly British and sourced as locally as possible , yet the menus are excitingly international . The Japanese sashimi has been a big hit , as has the ceviche , a South American dish made from raw fish cured in fresh citrus juices .
There are sharing platters , hot and cold tapasstyle plates and main course options of market fish cooked fresh according to customer preference . Seafood lovers will be in their element , the less adventurous can enjoy more conventional dishes , such as croquettes or shrimp burger . Shellfish enthusiasts will want to compare the taste of oysters from different coastal areas , helped along by a glass of wine or champagne .
The fishmonger prices may be slightly higher than in supermarkets , but this is a reflection of the quality and freshness . “ I challenge anyone to question the value for money once they ’ ve actually tasted the fish ,” says Richard . Andy , a marine conservationist
is also committed to cutting back on single use plastics which means that Fish Union carrier bags and packaging are plant based and compostable .
Most fish is sourced via Chapman ’ s , a Kent fish supplier working with specialist fisheries all along the South Coast , including Rye and Hastings and as far as Newlyn and Brixham in the West Country .
Richard adds ; “ Unlike your average fish counter , we can tell you exactly where each piece of fish comes from . We even know the name of the boat and its skipper . The fish is all responsibly sourced and is in our shop within 24 hours of being caught .”
Fish Union is open Tuesday to Saturday . Walk-ins are welcomed , although booking is advisable to avoid disappointment . Visit the website for opening times or to make a reservation . Follow Fish Union for recipe inspiration and seasonal promotions .
www . fishunion . co . uk fishunionlondon
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