subtly lit in the corner , spotlight-lit , front and centre is head chef , Alejandro Bello .
UK-based with Venezuealen roots and kitchen experience that spans as far as Saudi Arabia , Bello shares The Gastronomist vision of serving a ‘ localglobal ’ menu ; inspired by nature , sourced from the best local ingredients , and underpinned by flavour .
Having mastered his culinary techniques under Michel Roux Jnr at the legendary Le Gavroche , London and with stints in the kitchens of Ceviche , Soho ( where his food was described by The Wall Street Journal as “ a gastronomic dream ” within a week of opening ), The British Museum , the Saatchi Gallery , and Somerset House , expectations ran even higher as the music lowered and the lights came up for Bello to introduce his first dish ; the tahini cauliflower taco , with Stilton , Guajillo and celery .
A rarity to see a head chef in any instance , this isn ’ t simply a chef being extracted from a kitchen to work a room , nor an open pass offering excited diners glimpses into the inner sanctum of the chef ’ s domain , this is culinary storytelling at its best …
‘ It ’ s designed to be eaten in two bites , leave your cutlery alone ’ commanded Bello , as the beautiful soft taco appeared and was promptly devoured by all .
And of course this set the tone for the rest of the evening . Where Bello ’ s dishes do the tastebud talking , the precourse showmanship and existique service underpins the experience .
Diners are treated to anecdotal stories of how the team came to find themselves in Ashford and how the dishes were created .
‘ The asparagus is of course local , the strawberries are a combination of pickled green and fresh red , the flavours are developed with black pepper and balsamic ’ advised Bello , as Jokin explained how the mellow fruits of the Gribble Bridge Rose further draw out the flavour .
There is a journey into the provenance of each ingredient ; from the latest wine from Julian and his family at Biddenden to Ed at The Rebel Farmer ’ s courgettes ; in this instance served with a heady smoked burrata , sweet sundried tomatoes , the tang of heritage yellow tomatoes and delivered atop a moorish tomato crumb . A tutorial into the making of tiger ’ s milk , Bello ’ s ‘ the flavours come from shallot , lime , pepper and coriander , oh and it is said to be an aphrodisiac , so you ’ re welcome !’ met with murmurs of laughter followed by ‘ mmm ’ as guests sampled the liquid which provided the spice kick to the stone bass ceviche ( or in my case jackfruit , which again my fellow guests couldn ’ t unpick the difference in flavour or texture ). An explanation of food miles or pretty much steps for the Bethersden lamb ; a simply beautiful dish of rump of lamb , pea puree , mint , goats curd and redcurrant jus , was followed by the exquisite presentation of the blackberry eton mess with its charcoal shards of meringue , which provided the final theatrical flourish .
Bello ’ s style is recognised as being ambitious and inventive , not unlike the decision to bring a curated
fine dining concept to Ashford . Ingredient-forward , his dishes are refined , colourful and filled with flavour . As often as I could identify the flavour of his Latin American roots through punches of chilli , hits of lime and smoky base notes , I was as astounded by the subtlety of flavours and refined presentation of more typical British and French combinations such as the pink lamb and delicate pea .
Whilst Bello ’ s hand is brave and bold , it is also refined and delighting , enabling The Gastronomic to offer diners an accessible and encouraging way to try new dishes – for that of course is the idea .
For those questioning if it is the right idea for Ashford , it is entirely the right idea , at the right time , at the right price , and in the right place . For exquisite dishes and wine pairings alone , the cost is totally worth it . Add in the atmosphere , the service and the showmanship and you ’ ll discover it is the dining experience that you never knew you needed and now can ’ t live without .
The Gastronomist Elwick Place , Ashford TN23 1AX www . thegastronomistclub . com
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