FOOD + DRINK
SMOQE
WHERE FOOD THAT DOESN ’ T CREATE LASTING MEMORIES DOESN ’ T MAKE THE CUT .
IT SEEMED APT TO DESCEND EN-READY-MASS TO THE ROCHESTER ABODE OF SMOQE . NOT JUST BECAUSE WE ’ D SEEN PICTURES OF THE GIANT BURGERS AND SMOKY RIBS FOR WHICH SMOQE IS FAST DEVELOPING AN ACCLAIMED REPUTATION AND WHICH I ’ D HOPED WOULD KEEP MY SMALLS QUIET , BUT ALSO AS IT APPEARED THAT OUR RESPECTIVE FAMILIES ARE FOOD-OBSESSED KINDRED SPIRITS . BY SAMANTHA READY
Extensive travels around the good ol ’ US of A not only allowed Clare and John Tierney and their children , the family behind SMOQE , to discover authentic smoked BBQ flavours and find their ‘ gold standard ’ burger at a gastropub in NY , it sparked the urge to create their own foodie haven . A place not only built on some seriously great tasting burgers , rubs , sauces , and sides , but one that would offer others the chance to build their own happy foodie memories , something which evidently brings pure joy to the SMOQE family .
The decor at the highstreet-based joint is laidback hipster chic ; dark charcoal walls – perhaps a subtle precursor to some of the burger choices to follow – rustic wooden tables , leather and orange upholstered chairs , and some rather devine copper pendant lighting that swung the mood from toocool-for-school to friendly foodie welcome . The clever layout and finish evidence of Clare ’ s former life in interior design .
Where the setting is laid-back , subtle comfort , the menu is an unpretentious and family-tested flavour assault .
As expected from artisan burger aficionados , the house-special burgers , most made with SMOQE ’ s perfected beef patties , are all about taste . The 4oz patties , which can be selected as a single or double , are a house-blend of prime beef cuts . First smashed on a hot griddle to create the crispy outer ‘ crust ’ – one satisfying bite reveals a tender pink centre oozing with beefy juices – they are then added to a variety of taste bud-tempting towers of taste .
Offering yet more insight into the family ’ s sense of fun with food , the burger names are a tongue-incheek testament to the pleasure taken in menu development here and all relate to the Tierney clan ’ s own taste preferences .
On Yer Jack , was the simple choice picked by the littlest Ready , offering a 4oz patty , Tennessee bun , house or hot sauce , gem lettuce , red onion and tomato . Spice loving Mr R went all out flavourassault with the The Grim Reaper – John ’ s nickname namesake truly delivered on the hot flavour front as the double 4oz patty served in a charcoal seeded bun , came smothered in the hot house sauce , homemade from John ’ s own Carolina Reaper plant .
But it ’ s not all about the beef patties here . Clever additions such as the Korean Spicy BBQ Chicken – Panko crumbed chicken breast drizzled with homemade Gochujang BBQ sauce , Tennessee bun , Kewpie mayo , Asian slaw with kimchi , spring onion and chilli sprinkle , and topped with pickled cucumber – and the plant-based-BBQ-dream fulfilling Smoqe ’ d Jackfruit further showcase SMOQE ’ s commitment to flavour . The other smalls opted for the Buttermilk Chicken and were delighted by the tender fillet generously coated in SMOQE ’ s special herb coating , so good that I attempted to steal half and failed dismally as plates were licked clean .
Visit on a weekend and pre-order and you ’ ll also be able to nab chef ’ s special BBQ ribs too – a glorious match made in greedy Ready BBQ heaven ! Not usually a rib-fan , I fall into the too much mess and effort for not a lot of reward camp , which it transpired is an ethos shared by Clare and John , who rather than just opt for a standard rack have found their rib pinnacle with the St . Louis meatier cut . They drift off the bone , melt in the mouth and are a flavour sensation , as the base rub gives way to soft meat and the kick of the sweet smoky top sauce – it was easy to see why they are a big draw and an instant sell out .
The sides here haven ’ t been forgotten either . House slaw or julienne fries keep it simple , but the flavoured fries offer the opportunity to push the flavours more with toppings such as rosemary salt , Smoqe pork crackling salt or , my personal fave , crispy chicken skin . And they are divine . Crispy , salty , moorish , we had to order another bowl to keep up with the demand .
The team at SMOQE ’ s mission is to offer a ‘ gold standard ’ foodie experience , offering comforting and delicious food that leaves you wanting more . Underpinned by some great tasting and distinctive SMOQE ’ d flavour and some genuinely friendly and helpful service , I can lip smackingly concur that they have succeeded !
SMOQE 172 High Street Rochester ME1 1EX www . smoqe . co . uk
smoqewithaq
68