chef to bartender ; testament to The Churchill ’ s unfaltering approach to customer service and guest experience . All made our experience exciting , enjoyable and memorable .
Soaking up the atmosphere and warm welcome it was apparent that sophistication is the running theme here ; extending from the classic decor , upholstery and unobtrusive service , to the relaxed yet refined 440 rooms and suites , and to the understated yet elevated food and beverage options .
Delighted to find our own room overlooked Portman Square ’ s gardens , we were immediately at ease amongst the subtle neutral tones and classically calming style ; think soft whites and taupes ; classic white cotton bed linen ; and natural dark woods with traditional brass accents . All rooms offer coffee machines , mini bars and window-side desks . Our own larger suite was prominently situated , boasted Molten Brown toiletries , and , if open , we ’ d also have been able to indulge in the complimentary access to the Regency Club . For those seeking an ultra special experience , the Churchill Residential Suite ’ s fourbedroom extravagance , complete with grand piano no less , is the hotel ’ s pinnacle suite .
Despite the temporary closure of Locanda Locatelli , the Michelin-starred Italian offering , we were still in for a dining delight . Alongside the ever-popular Churchill Bar and Terrace ; which offers awardwinning cocktails , laid back dining and Cuban cigars from it ’ s chic interior bar and year-round heated outdoor terrace ; you ’ ll also find the Pop-Up Terrace ; which has now seasonally morphed from apres ski-style , blanket-laid , fondue-dunking cocoon , to hot Summer night , sophisticated , alfrescococktail haven ; as well as all day dining option , The Montagu Kitchen .
Taking a secluded seat ( which these days feels like a socially-distanced win ) in The Churchill ’ s finedining restaurant for dinner , was a little like opening a plainly wrapped gift to find the best present you never knew you wanted …
The dining room was a pared back affair of dark wood and simply laid tables ; there was no stuffy table linen , just glasses , silver cutlery and classic white napkins . For those that pay attention the nods to Chartwells ’ English garden inspiration were there in the form of delicate floral patterns on the chair upholstery and potted herbs in lieu of flowers . The simplistic space belied the utter brilliance of the dishes we were to experience courtesy of executive chef Roger Olsson and his passionate kitchen team .
Here , the menu proffers painstakingly executed British fine dining dishes , with a Kentish undercurrent . Olsson is not afraid to explore or invent , to push flavours or to deliver beautifully presented dishes . Yet he is reassuringly unfaltering in his commitment to let his quality ingredients shine through , not pushing dining boundaries or showmanship at the expense of dining enjoyment and classic cookery . The result was a menu that offered a tantalising selection of British dishes with just the right hint of nuance .
Sectioned into starters , salads , mains , and ‘ from the grill ’, the menu highlights Montague favourites as well as those inspired by Chartwell . It is seasonally changing , but look out for the beetroot or courgette starters ; when we visited it was a divine pickled courgette with whipped mousse and lemon gel ; as well as the seasonal soups . The ‘ bread ’ brings a whole freshly-baked and still-warm loaf to the table – with salted chive butter it is not to be missed !
For our main course we opted for a classic 21-day aged Rose County beef tenderloin ; perfectly seared , it melted in the mouth and was offset perfectly by a rich red wine jus , perfect for dunking a hand cut chunky chip into ; and the Dingley Dell pork belly with roasted carrots , apples and pork jus ; it was crisp yet soft , moorish , and all glazed to perfection .
Unsure if it was my obvious enthusiasm for pudding or Olsson ’ s sheer delight at having diners back to experience his kitchen mastery , dessert ended up being a triple indulgence ! Not only were we served
the most beautiful apple rosette with caramel sauce , sharp Granny Smith sorbet and crème fraîche ; we also had the theatrical delight of the chocolate hazelnut bombe ; as well as a sneak early taste of the vegan tarte development dish – a beautiful short pastry base , smooth dark ganache and vegan ice cream – it was divine ! Somehow Mr R even managed to snag a slice of brie , homemade chutney and seeded crackers for an impromptu cheese course too .
Each dish was lovingly crafted , beautifully presented , served with utterly effortless service , and tasted delicious .
It would have been rude not to sample a signature garden cocktail ( or two ) too . The aptly named ‘ Clementine ’ offered the deep flavours of JW Black Label , Drambuie , Green Chartreuse and clementine ; whilst the ‘ Pear & Ginger ’ the inspired combination of William Chase Potato Vodka , pear , ginger , and Kentish award-winner Chapel Down Brut . Both great accompaniments to a great evening meal .
Our stay married the excitement and excellence of a London top hotel experience , balanced with an affable , genuine warm welcome , and unpretentious guest and dining experience . It is rare to find somewhere that is able to do both , so effortlessly , and I for one can ’ t wait to experience Olsson ’ s kitchen flair and Hyatt ’ s hospitality again soon !
Hyatt Regency London - The Churchill 30 Portman Square London W1H 7BH www . hyatt . com
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