FOOD + DRINK
WESTWELL WINES CONT .
Further up you ’ ll find the Pinots , planted on a mix of sand and chalk soil , and then finally on the shallower , chalky soils , where the percentage of flint is at its highest and where the evening sun is at its best , is the Chardonnay . Situated on a chalk bedrock , the limestone-like properties take water efficiently away from the ground , saving it from becoming waterlogged . Waterlogging affects the microbiology of the soil , and no microbes means no vines , which in turn means no wine ! You begin to realise when wandering round , that these guys are relying mostly on the power of mother nature , and with very little human intervention involved . Growing grapes and making good wine on the frontier of what is possible requires things to be in their favour and this is heavily dependent on the soil and the weather , not always a guarantee in this country !
Since the takeover in 2017 , the team here have moved towards a more sustainable approach to wine-making and have almost halved the amount of herbicide spraying , which continues to reduce year on year . And yet we ask , what they are doing to prevent mildew , how are they protecting their vines and keeping the predators at bay ? Again the answer is honest , the philosophy being : ‘ small , simple changes that cumulatively make a big difference ’. Reducing non-organic spraying to once a year , planting a wildflower meadow for a buzz of pollinators in summer , as well as natural wind defences , canopy management , and post production considerations – the estate is committed to sustainability wherever possible .
And then , what we ’ d all been waiting for , the crux , the tasting . The perfect day , the perfect setting , up on the hill with spectacular views across the entire site , Jose hauled open his large coolbox to reveal the wines ! Up first , the sparkles , the 2014 Special Pink , an extremely appealing starting point , this wine is achieved using a rarer ( and note riskier ) saignee method , where very little time is allowed for the
Pinots to give the wine an amazing salmon pink colour . Made from both Pinot varieties and a touch of Chardonnay , it ’ s gentle fragrance gives way to a mouth filling rounded palate with elements of strawberry – refreshing and perfect with lobster , or on a hot summer ’ s day – very drinkable !
Next , the Late Disgorged Special Cuvee 2014 , again a blend of Pinot Noir , Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay , this wine is produced using traditional bottle fermentation methods with additional reserve wines from previous vintages for complexity and depth . It ’ s fruity and has aromas of toasted vanilla brioche , I mean what more could you want ?
By this point , the taste buds were tingling , and we were onto the final fizz , and probably most recognised , Pelegrim . Taking its name from the Middle Eastern word for Pilgrim , in a nod to the Vineyard ’ s location , it ’ s a classic English take on champagne and an example of doing it really well . A very long , lean wine with taut acidity , quite dry but well balanced by succulent notes of red apple fruit and lemon sherbet . This is focused and of outstanding quality – even the non experts can taste that !
Then came the still wines , the taboo subject in English winemaking , and yet here they are doing it so well . First , the Ortega skin contact , a wine fermented on skins slowly using wild yeasts , then aged in old Burgundy barrels for 9 months before bottling – meaning unfined and unfiltered . And last but no means least , The Field , a light almost rosé coloured liquid that would suggest fruitiness , and yet on the palate is textured and complex . Delicious flavours of ripe red cherries and strawberries with deep hints of black fruits and dried herbs . A firm favourite of mine , I was keen to get my hands on a bottle ahead of Sunday dinner with friends – in fact , the perfect accompaniment – so that ’ s exactly what I did !
And it ’ s not just the wines themselves that are a work of art , the labels are standout too ! Prehistoric sea creatures which make up the chalk in the soil , are a reflection of the attention to detail and pride , and all hand-designed , in-house by Galia ; who not only showcases her artistic talents but her understanding of the winemaking process too .
All the wines at Westwell are made on-site from fruit grown right at their fingertips . The team here are in complete control of the full process , focussing 90 % of their time and passion into producing award-winning wines to be proud of , and that taste world class . However unpredictable English winemaking , in wine making , hard work and determination definitely pays off - and what ’ s more rewarding than that ?
With continued experimentation – from skin contact to dessert wines , wild ferments , amphora , pet nats , and more – a bright future awaits for the estate . iKHQ will definitely be following their journey , and so should you !
Westwell Wines is open to the public for tours and tastings , and for direct wine purchases / click & collect .
Westwell Wine Estates The Vyneyarde Westwell Lane Charing Ashford TN27 0BW www . westwellwines . com
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