YOUR GARDEN THIS MONTH :
FEBRUARY
SPRING IS IN SIGHT . THIS MONTH THERE ARE SIGNS OF THE APPROACHING SPRING , WITH BULBS APPEARING AND WILDLIFE WAKING UP AS LIGHT LEVELS AND TEMPERATURES INCREASE . THERE ' S PLENTY TO DO INDOORS THIS MONTH TO PREPARE FOR THE SEASON AHEAD . OUTDOORS , AS THE GARDEN COMES TO LIFE AGAIN , IT ' S TIME TO PRUNE SHRUBS AND CLIMBERS , SUCH AS WISTERIA AS WELL AS EVERGREEN HEDGES .
Wisteria : pruning
Wisteria needs regular pruning to keep the growth and size under control , but it will also improve the flowering display . Although it seems complicated , wisteria pruning is quite simple if you follow this simple guide .
When to prune wisteria
Wisteria is pruned twice a year , in January or February , then again in July or August .
How to prune wisteria Wisterias can be left to ramble unchecked where space allows but will usually flower more freely and regularly if pruned twice a year . The removal of growth in summer allows better air circulation and more sunlight to reach the base of the young growths , encouraging better ripening of the wood and improving the chances of flower bud formation . Restricting the amount of vegetative growth and encouraging short , flowering spurs will result in more flowers .
Winter pruning – January / February
In January or February shorten summer-pruned shoots further . Cut them back to within 2.5 – 5cm ( 1 – 2in ) of older wood , or 2 to 3 buds . Long , whippy shoots that grew after the summer pruning should also be pruned . Cut these back to five or six buds from the main branch , making the cut just above a bud .
Summer pruning – July / August
New shoots that are not needed or have grown in already crowded areas should be pruned . Cut them back to five or six leaves from the main branch , making the cut just above that leaf . The summer pruning controls the size of the wisteria , preventing it getting into guttering and windows , and encourages it to form flower buds rather than green growth .
Renovation or hard pruning
With older plants severe pruning may be needed to remove old , worn-out growths , or branches growing over windows or protruding outwards from the face of the building . Likewise , hard pruning may be required where maintenance needs to be carried out on the structure supporting the plant .
Drastically shortening back long branches , removing sections of older stems to just above a strong young branch or growth shoot lower down , or cutting completely back to a main branch , or even to ground level may be necessary . A careful , unhurried approach is needed if larger , thicker branches are to be removed and where a branch is twining it may be necessary to trace back and mark it at intervals with string before removing it . The end result should be a skeleton framework of reasonably well-spaced branches .
Other points to consider when hard pruning :
• Hard pruning will stimulate strong , new growth so it is better to avoid feeding in the first spring after hard pruning .
• If there are gaps in the framework suitably positioned new growths can be trained in to form replacement branches , with flowering usually resuming in two or three years ’ time . Often there is strong basal shoot growth .
• If unwanted for replacement branches they can be removed . Any such pruning can be done during the period from leaf fall to early February .
• Other new growths can be pruned back summer and winter as for normal routine pruning .
For more information on pruning and for ways to train wisteria visit www . rhs . org . uk
www . rhs . org . uk
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