FOOD AND WINE PAIRING : IT ’ S ALL ABOUT BALANCE
BY CLIVE BARLOW , MASTER OF WINE AT CORKK
THERE IS A LOT OF NONSENSE SPOUTED ABOUT FOOD AND WINE PAIRING , AND I SHOULD KNOW BECAUSE I ’ VE HEARD ENOUGH OF IT FROM CERTAIN ‘ SOMMELIERS ’ IN RESTAURANTS WHOSE AMBITION IS TO CONFUSE , BAMBOOZLE AND CONVINCE THE CUSTOMER THAT YOU NEED TO BE AN EXPERT AND UNDERSTAND THE MINUTIAE OF EVERY WINE SO AS TO FIND THE PERFECT WINE PARTNER FOR EACH AND EVERY DISH . WHILST THIS MAY BE TRUE IN THE RAREFIED ATMOSPHERE OF 3-STAR MICHELIN ESTABLISHMENTS MOST MEALS CAN BE PARTNERED BY A RANGE OF WINES SO AS TO DELIVER THE MAXIMUM PLEASURE FOR THE DINER AND GUESTS . SIMPLY FOLLOW A FEW GUIDELINES AND YOU CAN START TO UNDERSTAND THE SENSUAL BENEFITS OF FOOD AND WINE PAIRING .
Balance
As a good rule of thumb , you can consider the question of balance . Think about the key part of your dish and match that , weight wise , to a wine . For example , a light fish dish , such as plaice or sole would be overwhelmed by a heavily oaked white or red wine or a heavy red meat dish such as steak and kidney pudding would wipe out a light white or red such as Pinot Grigio or Valpolicella . So , first match the weight to get a balance . Then we move onto the three elements of the food and wine marriage . Oh , to make the experience really work you need to sip a little bit of the wine when you have the food in your mouth ; that is when the magic happens .
The Three Elements
As in any partnership there are ways of working together and wine works with food in three ways .
Firstly , wine and food react with one another ; wine can break down proteins and fats allowing flavours to flood out of the food . In fact , both are enhanced because proteins and fats react with tannins and acid to soften and open the wine . Secondly , the flavours of wine act like a sauce to marry with , add to , or season the food .
Finally , wine cleanses the palate so that each time you taste the food your palate is ready to get the most flavour from the dish , they refresh one another .
A red meat dish tends to work with red wine because the tannins in the wine help break down the proteins and fats , releasing flavour and helping with digestion . It also works with strong cheeses in much the same way . Oaked whites work well with white meats , chicken and fish – especially where butter or cream is used – because the oak has tannins to break protein and fats and the acid helps to cleanse the palate . A crisp dry white with subtle flavours works with seafood because it allows the subtle flavours to show themselves , refreshes the palate and adds a seasoning effect just like a slice of lemon .
The Pleasure of Wine
So , you should try out these tips for food and wine pairing , however , in the end , drinking wine is about pleasure . The pleasure that the flavours and textures give you , the drinker . So , if you enjoy sweet white wine and you want it with a great , big , rare steak then do it . After all , nobody else can taste it for you to get your pleasure , but do , please , try a lovely ripe red , just to give it a chance !
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