FOOD + DRINK
COMFORTABLE LUXE , ATTENTION TO DETAIL AND SIMPLY EXQUISITE PLATES AWAIT AT :
HIDE & FOX , SALTWOOD
I CANNOT BEGIN TO EXPLAIN JUST HOW EXCITED MY GUEST AND I WERE AT FINALLY SNARING A TABLE AT HIDE & FOX . IT HAD BEEN TOP OF OUR KENTISH MUST VISITS SINCE ITS OPENING PRE-LOCKDOWN , AND THE WAIT WAS EVER SO WORTH IT … BY SAMANTHA READY
© Karuna Clayton
Nestled in the heart of Saltwood , near Hythe , Hide & Fox is less brainchild and more nurtured baby of Alice Bussi and Allister Barsby , whose attention to detail , passion and utter commitment to creating an exceptional dining experience are evident from the moment you step through the door .
Housed in the village ’ s former general store , the dining room is proudly dominated by the store ’ s beautiful preserved cabinetry , now repurposed as the restaurant ' s wine store , influenced of course by Bussi ’ s exceptional sommelier experience , commitment to fine wines alongside fine dining , and impressive design eye .
The ambience is a laid back yet refined affair of deep blues , stripped back wooden floors and intimate tables ; it offers the first evidence of the little touches of attention to detail , such as the hand-tied sprigs of lavender , that underpin the entire ethos of Hide & Fox .
The exceptional standards Bussi brings to front of house ; genuine warmth , effervescent service and the ability to deliver dish , drink or anecdotal story at just the right opportunity ; is replicated in the kitchen by Barsby .
The Kent-born chef , who has honed his skills across many an acclaimed kitchen , has surely now reached his pinnacle , with a refined menu and simply exquisite plates .
Since reopening , the decision was made to offer either a 5-course or 7-course taster menu , which can also be wine paired . It is entirely the right choice .
Arriving for lunch service we were treated to the 5-course menu , which , after devouring the signature pumpkin and sunflower seed bread , cods roe and shropshire cheese canapes , began with one of my abject menu horrors , salmon … Oh my absolute goodness the plate , delivered by Barsby was an absolute triumph ! Delicate cured salmon , apple ponzu , thinly sliced nori , and whipped horseradish cream combined into the most delicious layers of flavour - hand on heart the only salmon dish I have ever enjoyed - my salmon-loving guest happy to qualify it was the best he ’ d had !
And so began our Hide & Fox culinary experience , a masterful journey where a small amount of ingredients are expertly chosen and developed to provide incredible depths and layers of flavour , with nuanced textures that please with every last bite .
The revered , and repeat diners favourite , raviolo , an exquisite plate of fresh pasta , cut through to reveal soft egg yolk , confit chicken , with caramelised onion , pickled onion and chicken and onion broth .
The delightful 8-hour , salt-cured poached cod , with lemon puree , chorizo foam and samphire .
The wonderful Kentish marsh lamb from Tunbridge , served as a lion and belly aside Romesco sauce , olive tapenade , leeks , and goat ' s cheese with burnt leek powder .
The cheeky addition of a cheese plate to share , offering a warm from the oven , sticky , sweet , bursting with cranberries flapjack , topped with creamy , salty Oxford Blue and golden raisins .
The stunning Nashi pear , which offered the delicate flavours of vanilla and cinnamon from the poached Chinese fruit , offset with a smooth , white chocolate mousse , crunch of the divine salted granola and treat of butterscotch shards .
Barbsy has created triumphant dishes , working with concentrated ingredients to bring out new depths of flavour . Each course is brilliantly conceived and beautifully presented , combining layers of flavour and intriguing texture to make your taste buds dance in excitement .
Each plate was exceptional .
And of course , each dish is presented with proud flourish and with a paired wine from a list that includes local award-winners , old world stalwarts and some intriguing new world additions , each hand-picked by Bussi .
The duo are keen to point out that their concept and intention was to offer exceptional , refined , fine dining but in a relaxed and welcoming setting - they have succeeded and then some !
I look forward to what the future will bring ...
Hide & Fox The Green Saltwood Hythe CT21 4PS hideandfox . co . uk
hideandfox
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