FOOD + DRINK
PARISIAN BRASSERIE CHARM MEETS BOROUGH YARDS: CAFÉ FRANÇOIS BY SAMANTHA READY
London Bridge has become one of the capital’ s most viral places to eat( chocolate covered strawberries from Borough Market on TikTok, anyone?), but tucked beneath the beautifully restored Victorian railway arches of Borough Yards, Café François manages to transport you somewhere entirely different. Step through the doors and the bustle of Borough Market gives way to the more sophisticated hum of a classic Parisian brasserie, where long lunches blur into afternoon drinks and nobody seems in any particular hurry to leave.
Part of the acclaimed Maison François family, Café François brings the same effortless French hospitality that has earned its St James’ s sibling such a devoted following, this time with a more relaxed, all-day approach. The menu moves comfortably from breakfast and brunch through to leisurely lunches and dinner, making it just as suited to a morning croissant as it is a celebratory meal with friends.
The setting plays no small part in its appeal. Housed within the soaring brick arches of Borough Yards, the restaurant balances industrial heritage with unmistakable French elegance. Original brickwork and lofty ceilings are softened by warm timber, woven rattan, gentle curved metal racks and a pouring of natural light from expansive floor-to-ceiling crittal windows, while an open kitchen and rotisserie provide both theatre and the comforting aroma of French cuisine. It feels lively without being loud and polished without ever becoming formal, attracting everyone from shoppers taking refuge to couples and groups of friends settling in for an unhurried weekend brunch.
Joining my best friend on a late Saturday morning, we immediately appreciated a menu that understands brunch needn’ t stop at eggs and pastries. Alongside breakfast classics sit more substantial brasserie dishes, making it refreshingly easy to lean towards lunch should the mood strike.
There was never much doubt about our order … The restaurant’ s renowned‘ Chicken & Frites’ arrived exactly as hoped. The rotisserie chicken was beautifully succulent beneath deeply golden skin, every slice carrying the richness that only slow roasting can achieve. A glossy jus added savoury depth, while fragrant fine herbs lifted the dish with freshness. Alongside sat crisp, golden frites that somehow remained light enough for us to keep reaching for another.
To accompany brunch, I chose a glass of Café François Blanc from Bordeaux, while my friend opted for Domaine de Triennes Rosé from Provence. The Bordeaux proved bright and expressive, opening with citrus blossom and ripe orchard fruit before finishing with refreshing minerality that paired beautifully with the chicken.
The Provençal rosé was everything a weekend brunch wine should be: pale, elegant and delicately scented with wild
strawberries, white peach and soft citrus, finishing dry and wonderfully refreshing.
Dessert is where Café François steals the show, though. The crème caramel was beautifully executed, trembling delicately beneath its amber caramel with a silky texture that dissolved effortlessly on the spoon. My choice, however, was the celebrated mousse au chocolat, and rightly so. Rich, deeply chocolatey and impossibly light, it somehow managed to feel indulgent without becoming heavy. Better still, when ordered alongside a main course, it is served unlimited, making second helpings not only acceptable but positively encouraged.
A perfectly mixed espresso martini provided the ideal conclusion, balancing bold coffee, smooth vodka and just enough sweetness to round off the afternoon where a couple of hours had passed by in an easy blur.
With brunch dishes ranging from £ 11 for a bacon sandwich to £ 27 for steak frites, Café François offers something increasingly difficult to find- a restaurant that feels equally comfortable whether you’ re stopping for coffee, lingering over brunch with friends or settling in for a long, winefilled lunch. Stylish but unstuffy, elegant without pretension and built around genuinely excellent cooking, it is exactly the sort of place you’ ll find yourself planning to return to before you’ ve even paid the bill.
cafefrancois. london cafefrancoislondon
116 • www. insidekent. co. uk