FOOD + DRINK
The pork rillette was superb. Smooth, moist and deeply savoury, it spread generously across yet more bread, while sharp apple sauce cut neatly through the richness. Padron peppers followed, their sweetness and char balanced beautifully by an effortless switch from the menu’ s romanesco to a tomato passata, adapted so for allergy reasons.
From the larger plates, the harissa pork chop arrived beautifully caramelised, the spice warming rather than overwhelming, which allowed the quality of the meat to remain firmly centre stage. The bavette steak, a longstanding menu favourite, demonstrated exactly why it has earned its place. Deeply flavoured and expertly grilled, it arrived topped with one of the kitchen’ s ever-changing house butters that slowly melted into the meat. As self-confessed potato aficionados, sides were never negotiable. Koffmann’ s fries were everything one hopes they will be: crisp, golden and generously seasoned. Yet somehow they were eclipsed by the Lyonnaise potatoes where crisp edges gave way to buttery centres laced with garlic and delicate strands of onion. I would have quite happily just eaten these all evening. Every table should order them.
Dessert, and an accompanying Espresso Martini, felt inevitable. The salted caramel tart was delivered silken smooth with set golden caramel with hints of almond nuttiness from its thin crisp tart base, while the signature chocolate mousse demonstrated a richer touch. Served with dulce de leche ice cream, a swirl of olive oil and a pinch of salt, it struck that elusive balance between comfort and sophistication.
As the evening settled in around us, glasses were replenished, conversations drifted across tables and the sea beyond the windows darkened. It was an evening made even better by climbing the stairs and settling in for an overnight stay in a sea-facing room complete with the most plump of pillows, a great bedside reading collection and another excuse to venture to the restaurant. While breakfast is offered as a plentiful buffet, US has also launched weekend brunch for an extra reason to visit.
For a residency still described as temporary, US feels remarkably settled. Margate suits it. Fort Road suits it. The guests( us included) certainly seem to think so too. Long may it reign.
pomus. co. uk / pomusfortroad us _ fortroadhotel www. insidekent. co. uk • 117