Jo
FOOD + DRINK
On The Grapevine
It’ s been a rollercoaster of a year so far in the vineyards. The very dry and warm spring brought out the buds early and then the late May frosts caused havoc. Unless they were very lucky, a vineyard near you would have been battling with overnight freezing temperatures using whatever means necessary. Vineyard candles are a favourite here in Kent. They may look romantic, but the reality is very different when you are the one lighting them! Despite best efforts, some crops have been affected, so the yields this year, however good the summer proves to be, will be reduced.
Fear not, as wine will still be in plentiful supply at the vineyards when you visit this summer. If you’ re in West Kent, Squerryes( squerryes. co. uk) is an excellent choice. This county is not known for its mountains, but Squerryes sits at 150m, which makes it the highest altitude vineyard in Kent. The temperature drops as altitude climbs, so the grapes in the Squerryes vineyard take longer to ripen. The grapes would never be ripe enough to make still wine, but they are perfect for sparkling, which is why Squerryes wins so many awards for sparkling wine and you don’ t see any still wines from them. Visit their fine dining restaurant and eat on the terrace overlooking the vineyard, or pop in for a coffee and pastry, and stock up at their deli with wonderful local wines and produce. They also run a programme of tours and tastings that you can book in advance.
Moving into the centre of Kent is the county’ s oldest vineyard, Biddenden( biddendenvineyards. com). The first vines were planted in 1969. As the climate was cooler 57 years ago, the grape varieties that thrived were German. Now, the third generation of winemakers is still using those varieties and making fresh, vibrant, hugely drinkable wines that sell out every season. You can visit without booking in advance and take a self-guided tour through the old vines, finishing with a tasting of your choice. The farm shop and tasting room is a delightful place to spend a couple of hours and there’ s delicious local cheeses to accompany your wine.
EDEN AT HEVER CASTLE: A NEW CHAPTER IN REFINED DINING
Set within the historic grounds of Hever Castle, the recently launched restaurant Eden marks a new chapter in refined dining, bringing together exceptional cuisine, thoughtful hospitality and one of England’ s most remarkable settings.
At the heart of Eden is George Blogg, whose career spans some of the UK’ s most respected Michelin-starred kitchens including time alongside Philip Howard at The Square and David Everitt-Matthias at Le Champignon Sauvage. Under his direction, Eden’ s cuisine is rooted in its surroundings- from the estate’ s gardens to the wider countryside- guided by a vegetable-first philosophy that celebrates seasonality and provenance.
“ This is a new chapter and a new restaurant set within and inspired by the incredible Hever Castle estate,” said George.“ It is a privilege to create something this beautiful alongside a dedicated team packed full of enthusiasm and experience.”
Designed with understated elegance, the restaurant balances warmth and refinement. Natural textures, soft light and subtle reflections create an atmosphere that feels both intimate and open; large windows frame the castle and the surrounding orchard, while the flow of the River Eden brings a natural rhythm to the experience.
If you’ re further east, you should experience the Domaine Evremond( domaineevremond. com) phenomenon. The partnership between the Taittinger family and Hatch Mansfield has shown just how successful a Champagne house investing in Kent can be. It’ s not just the sparkling wine- of course that is delicious- it’ s the precise design of the winery and tasting room built into the side of the chalk slopes that overlook Chilham. It’ s also the gloriously wild planting and the attentive, friendly service. You will forget you are in the UK as you gaze out over the rolling hills, glass of perfectly chilled sparkling in hand.
However you enjoy your summer, make sure it’ s with a glass of something Kentish in hand!
Cheers!
Jo
JO GINN, BRAND MANAGER WINE GARDEN OF ENGLAND
jo @ winegardenofengland. com winegardenofengland
114 • www. insidekent. co. uk