Inside the Mani 2015 | Page 70

August 29th (Commemoration of the Beheading of Saint John the Baptist) A strict fast day, going by the book. After the Liturgy the village square glares heat from every cobble. The light crushes. We cower inside the kafeneion, under the creaking fan. Outside,huddled in black from head to slippered foot she leans against the well-head wall under the fig tree’s shade. The priest’s wife tells us ‘She does things properly, that one. Nothing will pass her lips today not even water.’ The well is dry – the sweet Taygetos water purloined by the tourist coast. (In the derelict public garden across the square a plastic bowser holds the village’s supply tepid in the sun.) ‘I’m a hundred and one, you know. I was born in that house there’ The shell without roof, the vacant window spaces gape onto the square. ‘You have a beautiful church here, Lady.’ ‘Yes? You should have seen it before – when I was young, then it was beautiful. Now, it is all _____’ My scant Greek loses its hold. The lament becomes rhythmic - all I catch is the refrain: Pou einai…? Pou einai…? Pou einai…? Where are what? The reflections in her girlhood eyesof young men dancing? Brothers and cousins gone to war, and not returned – or if returned not who they were? The busyness under her window as the world came and went through a living village? Or was she in her day the local funeral weeper, wailing still the generations of her Maniat dead, squandered across this unforgiving landscape: Where is the bridge that one might cross into the world below? Where are the young who sit and wait in silence? Where are the old, and where the little children? How do they fare without their mothers? Or does she perhaps, now she is as ready as she will ever be, rehearse her funeral canon: Where is the desire of the world? Where the imaginings of ephemeral creatures? Where are the gold and the silver? Where is the multitude of servants and of noise? All are dust, all ashes, all a shadow. Where is the beauty of the body? Where is youth? Where are the eyes, and where the bodily form? All like grass have withered, all have perished. The beauty of the countenance is mouldered and Death has withered all the flower of youth. Her voice fades, falters. Unmoving, she withdraws into who knows what unreachable moment of her turbulent century And still, Lady, at a hundred and one you do things properly. The water you drew to offer us today came from a deep well. Martin Olsson - October 2014 INSIDE the MANI 68