INSIDE HIMALAYAS | NEPAL | TIBET | BHUTAN
INSIDE HIMALAYAS | NEPAL | TIBET | BHUTAN
had mutually agreed upon a ceasefire.
Eid and the ceasefire were celebrated,
in Gurez, by parents taking their young
ones for walks, and exchanges between
neighbouring villages.
The constant, nagging worries about
unemployment, lack of basic amenities,
insufficient opportunities for children’s
futures, and the subconscious fear of
living in a border town were all pushed
to the back of people’s minds during
this celebration. The people here are
unimaginably generous and hospitable.
A young man in the village of Tulail read
parts of the Quran to us, who were born
Hindus and are practicing humanists.
As we looked outside at the Himalayan
range, we knew we would have to
come back to this most exquisite part
of Kashmir. Dangerous? Not remotely,
for a visitor. Home for a wandering
traveller’s heart? Undoubtedly.
The caretaker of the Tourist Reception Centre is one of the most hospitable natives of Gurez. Photo: Anisha Mandal.
The view of the mountainous terrain is breathtaking while driving down from Bandipora to Gurez. Photo: Anisha Mandal.
The women of Gurez have a simple sense of style. Photo: Anisha Mandal.
A sister takes her brother out for a stroll on Eid. Photo: Anisha Mandal.
haven’t been adequately represented in any
art form or by the written word.
My friend and I visited many homes in the
eleven villages in the valley on the occasion
of Eid. With 450 ‘chulhas’, or ovens (a way of
counting the population), and an average of
eight people residing around each chulha,
approximately 35,000 people call Gurez home.
We were used to Eid festivities in the rest
of the Indian subcontinent being full of
exhilaration, with throngs gathering in shrines,
and people loudly and joyfully celebrating.
But, watching Eid being celebrated in Gurez
was a calming and peaceful experience.
The locals embraced each other with all the
warmth of the world, wore their best attire,
cooked lavish meals, cheered with a few
firecrackers. But it was mostly a time of respite
for the whole of Kashmir: India and Pakistan
Every village house greets travelers with unimaginable hospitality and
countless cups of tea. Photo: Anisha Mandal.
The crescent moon and star of the Dawar Shrine glints in the clear skies of
the Eid morning. Photo: Anisha Mandal.
Savouring Sweets the Local Way
by Kusum Kalikote
Among the many lanes in Mangalbazar, around the Patan Durbar Square, are numerous street vendors, cafes and sweet
shops that offer visitors a perfect place to stop and refuel. Located amid the ancient lanes is a 140-year-old Newar sweet
shop, Shree Nanda Mithai Bhandar. It’s right behind the alley beside the stone Krishna Mandir. The four-generation-old
sweet shop is famous for its thick, creamy barfi. One morsel of the sweet will leave you craving for more. They sell many
types of Newar sweets. The jerry, swari, halwa, sel and malpua from this shop are extremely popular among devotees
visiting the temples of Patan in the morning.
In Newar culture, sweets play an important role in any auspicious occasion. Regular visitors swear by their sweets, and
some people even come from all the way across town to buy their sweets. Some locals sitting nearby said the shop is
popular because their snacks are fresh and not so oily. The sweets are neatly stacked outside an old Newar house that
has been home to this shop for around 140 years.
Next time you’re around Patan, drop by this sweet shop for some divine Newar sweets.
The village elders of Tulail gather in the common community area for a conversation on Eid. Photo: Anisha Mandal.
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www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel
www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel
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