INSIDE HIMALAYAS | NEPAL | TIBET | BHUTAN
winter, and it gets so cold at these
altitudes that those who can afford it
descend to warmer places, usually
to do seasonal work. In the village of
Ghemi, a jumble of some forty houses,
with large stacks of firewood on the
roofs for the coming winter, we meet
the 23-year-old Yantzing. Her husband
has left for India, leaving her behind
with their six-month-old baby Tenjing.
“But isn’t that lonely?” we ask. Yantzing
shrugs. “I have to take care of the
animals,” is her simple answer, warming
herself in the morning sun.
In the morning we wake up to the
singing of men working their land. Their
plow is pulled by a dzo, which is a yak
crossed with a cow. The traffic consists
of cows exiting the city walls on their
way to the grassy plains, and a herd of
goats driven along by an old man with
antique sunglasses. A student monk
walks out with a cup of tea and throws
it over the roof of the temple. A sacrifice
to the gods, explains the teenager in
sweatpants, while the lamas inside
begin with their seven-hour ceremony.
We enter the Lo-Ghyekar Temple, the
INSIDE HIMALAYAS | NEPAL | TIBET | BHUTAN
oldest in Upper Mustang built in the
eighth century. According to legend,
it was here that Guru Rinpoche, who
brought Buddhism to Upper Mustang,
murdered a reluctant demon after he
had chased him out of neighbouring
Tibet. Finally they constructed this
temple, on top of the heart of the
unfortunate demon. The monastery
guard takes us to the back, where
candles are burning on an altar in a
pitch-dark room. We also light one,
quietly standing in front of the altar,
feeling awed by centuries of spirituality
surrounding us.
We find it very difficult to imagine a
highway through this rugged land. If
the demons will allow for that, at least.
• The best times to go are autumn
and spring. Winters are very cold
at these altitudes (around 4000
metres), and though Mustang is not
affected by the monsoon season, it
can be difficult getting to the region.
• Basic lodges are available in most
villages across the central part of
Mustang. The same places also
provide meals. Nights can be very
cold so you may want to bring
thermal underwear.
• Mustang is an extremely remote
region, with almost no phone
coverage, no banks, hardly any
health posts, no clean water and
harsh weather. Be prepared and you
will have an incredible journey.
•
Travelers
to
Upper
Mustang
need to pay a considerable fee of
US$500 per person for a ten-day
period. A TIMS card and Annapurna
Conservation Area permit are also
required. It is forbidden to trek
independently in Upper Mustang.
• We hired a private jeep and driver
in Jomsom, in Lower Mustang.
Another possibility is going back
from Lo Manthang to Jomsom in
a shared jeep, which is cheaper
and most likely you will share the
vehicle with locals.
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The Kali Gandaki River weaves through the Kali Gandaki Gorge. Photo: Ynske Boersma.
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