Inside Himalayas Magazine Issue 6 - 2018 Inside Himalayas Issue 6 - 2018 | Page 54

INSIDE HIMALAYAS | NEPAL | TIBET | BHUTAN INSIDE HIMALAYAS | NEPAL | TIBET | BHUTAN A Road Trip to MUSTANG by Ynske Boersma Night is falling in Lo Manthang. The city’s elderly are walking their daily round spinning the many prayer wheels along the city walls, humming om mane peme hum and carrying pots of burning incense. The narrow streets are occupied by sully cows, driven forward by tough Tibetan ladies slapping the cows’ buttocks. Then a roaring sound comes near and a bunch of horses enters the city gate at top speed, almost running us over. “The King’s horses,” a local monk tells us proudly. “They come back to spend the night in the Royal Palace’s stables.” Lo Manthang is the walled capital of Upper Mustang, in the north of Nepal. The history of Mustang back to the end of the 14th century, when a Tibetan warlord called Ame Pal founded the Buddhist Kingdom of Lo. Thanks to its location alongside the Salt Route, an old trade route connecting India and Tibet, the kingdom would soon flourish. But at the end of the 18th century the kingdom was incorporated into Nepal and slowly fell into oblivion, hidden behind the mountain ranges of the Himalaya. Because of its location on an isolated rugged plateau hidden behind snow- capped Himalayan giants, and because it managed to keep the Chinese outside its borders over the past century, Upper Mustang is considered to be one of the best-preserved examples of Tibetan culture in the world. Until 1992 it was forbidden for foreigners to enter the area, and access is still restricted to those willing to pay the permit to visit. The rugged road to Upper Mustang. Photo: Ynske Boersma. Our hostess preparing our food. Photo: Ynske Boersma. “The jeep trip may be quicker than walking but it´s no less adventurous as we discover when our vehicle crosses the fast-flowing river through the valley, the water up to the bonnet.” 54 www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel 55