Inside Himalayas Magazine Issue 6 - 2018 Inside Himalayas Issue 6 - 2018 | Page 50

INSIDE HIMALAYAS | NEPAL | TIBET | BHUTAN INSIDE HIMALAYAS | NEPAL | TIBET | BHUTAN at 6am. The journey is at least eight hours, and you’ll reach Tatopani from Beni by dark. Tickets do not need to be purchased in advance. For those traveling from Pokhara first, buses to Beni depart regularly from Prithvi Chowk or Baglung Bus Park, about a three- hour ride. From Beni, local taxis are available for the two-hour ride to “Dana” or ”Burung” Tatopani (elevation 1190 metres), which should not be confused with “Singha” Tatopani. The route follows the southwestern side of the traditional Annapurna Circuit route to Jomson and Muktinath. A number of trekkers’ lodges are available in Tatopani Bazaar, all close to the roadside hot springs. For those seeking a more rustic experience, a local homestay is available on the opposite side of the river, just before reaching the local hotsprings on foot. One should enjoy the wonderful healing power of hot springs in the evening to work out the kinks from the long road travel. The Shortcut to Kopra Danda by Michael D. Smith Kopra Danda is a ridge with magnificent views. Photo: Michael D. Smith. “Visiting the waterfall on the walk back down to Tatopani from Narchyang is a magnificent way to complete the counter clockwise loop. It’s often considered to be the most spectacular waterfall on the Annapurna Circuit.” Trekkers in Nepal who don’t have the luxury of time—or the luxury of a budget that allows them to charter a helicopter deep into the mountains—have many options for shorter Himalayan treks that get right into the mountains and off the beaten path. However, finding information on these can be challenging, as most trekking and tour agencies promote the same, popular routes. While those popular routes are recommendable, one side-effect is that most tourist dollars only benefit hotel owners and restaurateurs along those routes, rather than providing meaningful economic benefit to rural households is lesser-visited areas. Even places less than a day’s walk from the popular treks may rarely get visitors, despite having the key elements that travelers in rural Nepal seek: warm and friendly people, charming rural homesteads, natural beauty, a feeling of remoteness, and stunning mountain views that lift one’s mind and spirit beyond life’s ordinary concerns. One such short trek that can be accomplished from Kathmandu and back in a week or less is the Paudwar to Kopra Danda (Ridge) Trek. 50 www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel Typically, Kopra Ridge (3660 metres) is approached from the southeast as the last portion of the Myagdi Community Trek originating in Beni, or the Annapurna Dhaulagiri Community Trail, originating farther to the southeast. However, by traveling directly to Tatopani from Kathmandu, one can get to the uniquely epic view point at Kopra Danda in just a few days. Day 1: Kathmandu to “Dana” Tatopani Bazaar, Myagdi District Day 2: Tatopani to Paudwar Village Day 3: Paudwar Village to Kopra Danda Day 4: Kopra Danda to Narshyang or Paudwar Day 5: Narshyang or Paudwar to Tatopani Bazaar Day 6: Tatopani Bazaar to Pokhara Day 7: Pokhara to Kathmandu Day 1: Those pressed for time who cannot make an overnight stop in Pokhara or Beni can catch an early morning minibus to Beni from Kathmandu Ring Road, outside Balaju, Day 2: If you are not already on the Narshyang side of the Kali Gandaki, anyone in Tatopani can point out the way to cross the river, either at the suspension bridge or at the steel bridge. After the bridge, the trail turns right, passes the local hot springs, and ascends for a four to five-hour climb to the scenic traditional Magar village of Paudwar. Paudwar (elevation 2000 metres) has exceptional stonework. The labyrinthine paths, winding staircases, and attractive houses are some of the best surviving examples of Nepali stonework. Many houses are at least 80 years old (built since the major earthquake of 1934), and utilise a unique system of seismic- resistant wooden locks and pins that bind the tops of walls to beams. The people of Paudwar are well-known for being friendly and industrious, and one can arrange a local homestay by inquiring at the Paudwar Secondary School. Otherwise, the Dhaulagiri Lodge is quite homely, with a good menu. Cheese is available at the local cooperative cheese factory. Day 3: The six-hour walk from Paudwar village to Kopra Danda (3660 metres) begins with a steep climb through cow pasture and bamboo forest, then wraps around the hillside into the Jarbhang Valley, uninhabited except for a buffalo camp and local teahouse at Loreni, about two hours above Paudwar. From Loreni, the trail enters a old- growth rhododendron forest, which explodes with large red, pink, purple, and white rhododendron blossoms This waterfall is considered the most spectacular on the Annapurna Circuit. Photo: Michael D. Smith. www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel 51