INProfile Issue 3 | Page 10

frame & panel door construction made easy

Profile scribed frame joints can now be produced economically by the amateur or DIY woodworker
by John Perkins

Making frame and panel doors using the router is now an accepted and common practice for many professional woodworkers . For the home craftsman it used to be expensive as there was a need for a heavy duty router , router table and 12.7mm shank cutters . However , with the addition to the Craft Range of 1 / 4 inch and 8mm shank profile scribing cutters , router power and the cost of professional tooling is no longer a consideration . These profile scribers are now available in three styles : Flat Classic , Straight Bevel or Ogee Panel Profile and can be used in conjunction with various shaped panel raisers . Such tools with smaller shanks are ideal for use with the Trend T5 router fitted in the CRT MK2 router table or with other routers above 850 watts .

Frames and Panels
For strength , profile scribed joints rely on a tongue cut by the scribing cutter to form a tenon . This tenon engages into the panel groove that is cut along the inside edge of the door rails and stiles . By reassembling the cutter components , both parts of the joint can be routed to produce a high degree of accuracy .
Cutting Profile Scribed Joints
It is general practice when cutting profile scribed joints to cut the rail end tenon and scribed moulding first , otherwise the bearing guide may drop into the groove routed when making the profile mould .
Setting out and cutting the materials to size :
■ First decide on the overall size of the door by measuring the cabinet door opening .
■ Decide on the width of the stiles and rails . Remember by making the bottom rail slightly wider than the top rail and stiles , the door will look better balanced .
■ Plane the frame timber to an equal thickness , between 18mm and 22mm .
■ Calculate the length of the top and bottom rails . This will equal the width of the door minus twice the width of the stiles plus twice the depth of the panel groove ( example 420mm - ( 2 x 52mm ) + ( 2x12mm ) = 340mm rail length ). Cut the rails exactly to this length leaving the ends square .
■ Cut the stiles 20mm to 30mm overlength , the door length can be set out as the doors are glued up , any excess being trimmed off later .
■ Decorative curved edge top rails are cut to length in the same way , only the width of the rail will differ .
■ Cut several pieces of similar size timber for use as test pieces .
■ Mark the face side and edge on each piece .
Cutting the Scribed Rail Ends
The profile scribing cutter consists of a threaded arbor with lock nut , moulding cutter , a grooving cutter and a guide bearing . There are also three copper shims and a steel washer . The cutter is assembled ready for cutting a scribe when it
leaves Trend and easy to follow assembly diagrams for changing its mode are supplied . In order to reduce stress on the cutter , turn one of the cutters so that they are at 90 ° to each other .
Mount the cutter in the router and set the cutter height to give a top quirk depth of no less than 1.5mm . When cutting , the rail ends must be run against the backfence with the rail at right angles to it . Use a steel rule to adjust the fence so that the face of the bearing is aligned with the face of the fence . Also check that the fence is parallel to the mitre fence groove on the table . To hold the rail square to the fence , it is advisable to make up a sliding workholder incorporating a secure means of clamping the timber .

10 INProfile Autumn 1999