from the fact that its wines are one grape, the Riesling; and it grows in difficult climate, slate soil( not much dirt), often on near-vertical slopes. Et cetera.
Also, despite the fact that French wines CAN be drunk alone( I mean without meals, not without friends), in afternoons; at bars... they usually are not. They often are meant to be paired with food or right before a meal, with hors d’ oeuvres. Wines that are meant to be independent are largely viewed as inferior beverages. Pleasant, but...
Whereas many German wines are MEANT to be drunk alone, sipped during the afternoon. Or as dessert wines – a phrase that makes a lot of wine“ experts” laugh. But as they laugh, I sip. And love every minute of it. The Germans know that much of the dissension stems from the fact that their wines tend to be – are supposed to be – sweeter than other Whites of the world. So what. To me( to us) more pleasant. And – a law of oenology’ s chemistry – sweeter wines cannot be high in alcohol; it doesn’ t work. The“ must”( sugar)
level, as a component, is what German categories are based on.
So great Whites can be 7 percent alcohol( often half of the world’ s other wines) and can last in bottles for generations. Reds generally have to be drunk within a few years of bottling, and dry whites about the same; their quality will dissipate. I wonder when I will EVER open my precious 1970 Eisweins or, especially, my 1976 Ausleses and Trockenbeerenausleses and Eisweins. Two of the great years of the last century; maybe my children will inherit them. I have opened a few of them for very special occasions over the past decades.
A century and a half ago, German Whites were much prized. Queen Victoria even maintained a castle in the Rhein Valley, partly so she could enjoy the local wines, especially from Hockenheim. Which accounts for the British nickname for German Whites, even today:“ hock.” I am reasonably certain that two world wars, and bad PR, occasioned anti-German prejudice, even down to wines.
There are 13 wine regions in Germany, and only a few prominent grapes. That’ s all.
Whatever – more for us, and better prices.
I will quickly run through the grades, also an explanation of complicated labels, because all these factors are present on the labels. Labels are meant to be excruciatingly precise, regulated by governmental agencies, as are the wines themselves; a heritage to protect.
Taffelwein, or table wine, is common and respectable – just as you might find heavenly pairings with peasant wines from the back yards of Italian or French friends. Not pretentious, but solid and appropriate to occasions and foods.
QBAs and other such classification are too complicated for here – oh, all right, the initials stand for Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete: Quality wine from a certain region. It denotes higher qualities than table wines, but can be basic. Good, not special. German wines with nuns and monks and cats on the label, popular brands, are of this designation.
Then comes the group of wines generally labeled Qualitätswein mit Prädikat: Quality with a Predicate( Attribute), and, going up the scale, these wines get interesting:
Kabinett, literally“ cabinet,” reserve quality you will want to keep separate.
Spätlese,“ specially picked” grapes, clusters that are riper and therefore sweeter than those for Kabinett. Wonderful for Mosel wines, which tend to be lighter and fruitier than Rheingaus.
Auslese,“ picked out,” that is, clusters or grapes that are examined for ripeness when harvested, vine by vine. When some have been hit by the rare climate conditions causing mold … they are especially prized! More in a minute. These can be drunk alone, with meals, or as dessert wines, depending on the characteristics of year and vintage. From here on“ up,” the Rheingau Riesling grapes make the noblest, most complex, and boldest wines – fruity, acidic, sweet, noses( aromas) and tastes that linger in your mouth.
Beerenauslese, even more special,“ pickedout berries,” called so because they have started to dry on the vine. They can look like raisins. These are prized, especially when the“ noble rot” hits in some seasons. This mold – harmless, like penicillin is; and filtered out – microscopically pierces the grape skins. Water evaporates, leaving small amounts of a grape syrup. These almost always become dessert wines.
Trockenbeerenauslese,“ dry select berries,” is called that not because the wine will be a dry wine, not at all, but that the grapes
89
InnovativeHealthMag. com