INhonolulu Magazine Issue #14 - February 2014 | Page 24

From page 23

From page 24

Kalua Pork Pizza ($12)—barbecue sauce, pineapple, mango, red onion, cilantro, jack and mozzarella cheeses.
Veggie Pizza ($11)—red sauce, caramelized onions, confit tomato, grilled zucchini, mushroom,
arugula and buffalo mozzarella.

The fries that came with this burger met every one of my fry criteria.
I tried them first and almost forgot
about the burger itself.
The almost-forgotten burger is
cooked “Juicy Lucy” style, which is
a burger that has the cheese stuffed
inside the meat instead of placed
on top. Unfortunately, when I cut it
in half, most of the cheese fell out,
making for messy eating and an
un-cheesed burger. Moreover, the
serrano and chipotle pepper makes
the burger almost taste like sausage,
which isn’t a bad thing if you like
that breakfast sandwich taste.

A good pizza is one that you can enjoy all the way down to the crust, and
these pizzas both took me there. Crust
isn’t just the bread-slate for sauce—it
is its own entity. The crust was clearly
given the same amount of attention as
the rest of the pizza: thin but sturdy,
crispy, buttery, sprinkled with Parmesan. Granted, it means your hands will
get all crumby, but that is obviously a
small price to pay.
The Kalua pork pizza is a beautiful
marriage of sweet and savory. Even
though there’s a strong barbecue flavor,
it doesn’t drown out the pork. Instead,
the pork is pleasantly dry, which contrasts the juiciness of the tart pineapple
and mango chunks.
I’ve never been a fan of veggie pizzas until now because the ones I’ve had
have been dry and topped with paper-thin slices of soggy vegetables. By
contrast, the Safehouse pizza has thick
slices of vegetables on it. The zucchini
was slightly crisp, and its strong, earthy
flavor compliments the globs of mozzarella. It was so good that, even with
my preference for meat, I was unable to
pick which pizza I liked better.
“Juicy Lucy” Inspired Bar Burger ($13)—serrano
a