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Issue #12 December 6, 2013
Bar food is not known for its glamor. It’s usually something deep-fried, oily and served in a basket with a checkered-print liner. The Safehouse, lounge and bar to The Republik, takes exception to that notion. Rolling out a new menu this month that is thoughtful, both in presentation and in flavor, The Safehouse changes bar dining from a second thought to something to look forward to.
Spicy Ahi Wonton Tacos ($14)—fresh ʻahi tossed with creamy house spice mix, Asian slaw and avocado.
Perched atop a bed of shredded cabbage, these tacos look dainty. However, the wonton shells hold their own below the ʻahi, and you can eat it in bites without worrying about everything falling apart. Each taco comes with an itty-bitty lime slice that brings a tang to the otherwise mayo-laden morsels. Even though the fish is spicy, the mayo and coleslaw give it a cooling effect, keeping the dish light.
Pairing the ʻahi with wonton taco shells works perfectly because it breaks down easily once in your mouth, so you simultaneously experience the crisp crunch of the shell with the plump ʻahi pieces.
Kalua Pork Pizza ($12)—barbecue sauce, pineapple, mango, red onion, cilantro, jack and mozzarella cheeses.
Veggie Pizza ($11)—red sauce, caramelized onions, confit tomato, grilled zucchini, mushroom, arugula and buffalo mozzarella.
A good pizza is one that you can enjoy all the way down to the crust, and these pizzas both took me there. Crust isn’t just the bread-slate for sauce—it is its own entity. The crust was clearly given the same amount of attention as the rest of the pizza: thin but sturdy, crispy, buttery, sprinkled with Parmesan. Granted, it means your hands will get all crumby, but that is obviously a small price to pay.
The Kalua pork pizza is a beautiful marriage of sweet and savory. Even though there’s a strong barbecue flavor, it doesn’t drown out the pork. Instead, the pork is pleasantly dry, which contrasts the juiciness of the tart pineapple and mango chunks.
I’ve never been a fan of veggie pizzas until now because the ones I’ve had have been dry and topped with paper-thin slices of soggy vegetables. By contrast, the Safehouse pizza has thick slices of vegetables on it. The zucchini was slightly crisp, and its strong, earthy flavor compliments the globs of mozzarella. It was so good that, even with my preference for meat, I was unable to pick which pizza I liked better.