UPPER UNION REVIEW layered flavour. The menu refuses to be boxed into a single cuisine. Instead, North African spice, Middle Eastern influence, and South African produce meet in ways that feel thoughtful rather than forced.
Burger describes the concept as centred around connection, inspired from long Sunday lunches, where food arrives continuously, wine flows freely, and nobody rushes to leave. That philosophy runs through every part of the Upper Union experience.
The dimly lit dining room pulls you away from the noise outside and into a softer, more intimate world. There is confidence in the space, and even more from the kitchen.
We were among the first diners to try Chef Burger’ s new menu, and from the first plates, every dish arrived with intention.
The meal opened with the house bread course, a warm kubaneh bread traditionally associated with Yemenite Jewish cooking. Baked slowly overnight, the bread was pillowy and comforting. Served alongside a selection of butters and oils, including mebos butter, Klein River Gruberg cheese, and Ubuntu extra virgin olive oil, it immediately set the tone for the evening.
Then came the starters.
The yellowtail, paired with bokkom XO, pomelo salad, beurre monté, and trout roe was one of the evening’ s most balanced dishes. The fish remained delicate and buttery, while the bright citrus from the pomelo sliced cleanly through the richness of the sauce. Every bite balanced salt, acid, and sweetness.
Equally memorable was the lamb kibbeh nayyeh, served with red onion, guindilla chilli, paratha, and olive oil. For diners hesitant about raw meat, this dish changes minds quickly. The lamb was smooth and deeply savoury, while the flaky paratha turned the course into something tactile and interactive. Eating by hand added to the pleasure.
Upper Union shines brightest once the table fills completely.
The beef cheek tagine arrived slow-cooked and deeply aromatic, layered with green harissa, mebos, and prune. Rich without becoming heavy, the dish carried warmth rather than heat, with the sweetness of the fruit pulling everything together.
Then there was the Hyderabadi rice. Easily one of the stars of the evening. Fragrant saffron, crispy onion, and bukhara transformed what could have been a supporting side into something worthy of attention on its own. The texture and spice made another spoonful unavoidable.
The restaurant’ s vegetable dishes deserve equal praise. A colourful mix of tursu vegetables, cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, and jalapeño brought sharpness and crunch to the table, while the za’ toor kishek with medjool date and burnt chilli sherry vinaigrette delivered one of the most unexpectedly comforting flavours of the night. Creamy, tangy, and layered with depth, it quietly became one of the meal’ s highlights.
Dessert continued the restaurant’ s theme of playful indulgence.
The jalebi with pistachio gelato, Turkish delight, and cardamom crumble transported the table straight into the flavours of India. Sticky, fragrant, and texturally rich, the dessert balanced sweetness beautifully against the cold pistachio gelato. The house-made Turkish delight melted almost instantly on the tongue.
Then came the clementine passionfruit pavlova dessert, concealed beneath a delicate white chocolate shell. Cracking through the exterior revealed a bright, tangy centre that shifted the table’ s energy back to excitement. It was interactive, elegant, and fun without becoming gimmicky.
And then, finally, the chef’ s treats arrived.
At this point, most diners will already be full. That will not stop Chef Burger from sending out one final gesture. Upper Union is not interested in minimalist fine dining portions. Guests are meant to leave satisfied.
What makes Upper Union special is not only the technical execution. Plenty of restaurants execute food well. What sets this restaurant apart is emotional memory. It feels familiar in the best way: loud family dinners, shared plates, and long celebrations where nobody checks the time.
Whether for a date night, milestone birthday, or intimate engagement dinner, Upper Union understands hospitality beyond the plate.
Cape Town has no shortage of beautiful restaurants. Few manage to feel this personal. IB
JUNE 2026 / INBOUND SA 103