DEVANDRA NARISMULU
From how to hold a knife and chop an onion to how to make classic sauces, mastering these small, basic skills helps create time efficiency, reduces waste and delivers better end results, Devandra notes.
“ We had to get the foundation right, as that’ s how you build a well-oiled machine,” he says.“ In this profession, no two days are the same, so you need to be flexible – and growing your knowledge and mastering skills is how you do that.”
DIVERSITY ON THE PLATE Devandra describes his personal culinary style as“ rustic and fresh,” but adaptability is his true signature. In a hotel where many guests are international, the buffet evolves constantly and he loves to experiment with bold homegrown flavours – African, Indian, Cape Malay:“ Diversity is our identity.”
As an Indian South African chef, Devandra also speaks candidly about rediscovering his heritage. In his early years, he gravitated toward classical
Western cuisine. Now, he ensures his team can produce what he confidently calls“ one of the best curries in Joburg”.
“ When it comes to curry, you can give someone a recipe, but it’ s about feeling the spices and instinctively knowing the quantities – you must feel it when you throw it in.”
CREATIVITY MEETS COMMERCIAL REALITY Running a profitable kitchen is a balancing act. Food costs fluctuate, and to manage this, Devandra focuses on seasonal sourcing, trusted local suppliers, strategic menu development, and a strict no-waste policy.
Leadership in the kitchen requires firmness and diplomacy, he says. The old-school military style shaped him, but City Lodge Hotels’ family-oriented culture has refined his approach.“ You must be firm but fair. You must change with the times.”
For young chefs, his advice is clear: follow the learning, not the money.“ Sometimes you take a step back to move ten steps forward. Always work one position above your current role – think about the bigger picture – and you will be an asset in any kitchen.”
In his own kitchen, Devandra still makes stocks from bones, sauces from scratch and baked goods in-house. Convenience products have their place, he admits, but innovation lies in how you use them.
At the end of the day, though, his measure of success remains beautifully simple:
“ This is a very giving profession. If the guest is happy, my day is made. Especially when that
‘ guest’ is my five-year-old son.”