INGOOD TASTE
Candid conversations with the dining scene ’ s most engaging chefs
Gloria Fortunato , Chef / Co-Owner , and Cathleen Enders , Co-Owner , Wild Rosemary Bistro
Wild Rosemary Bistro 1469 Bower Hill Road , Upper St . Clair ; 412.221.1232 , wildrosemary . com
On the Menu : Eclectic Americana with a revolving array of menu selections that are simple , seasonal and fresh . From seafood options — such as scallops , whole fish and market selections — to pork and lamb sourced locally from Serenity Hill Farms in Cheswick , there is also veal , steak and seasonal duck and quail . Note : It is BYOB , and the menu changes every three weeks .
What led you to open Wild Rosemary Bistro ? G . F .: Cathleen and I always wanted to open a small bistro . We were waiting for the right space to come to us . Then we found it in this building one wouldn ’ t think of . We are already into our 13th year of being open .
C . E .: Yes , we opened this together in 2008 with a third partner who has since retired . It ’ s something Gloria and I wanted to do for a long time , and it took a long time to realize it .
Why did you become a chef ? G . F .: My mother Julia ’ s talent and love of food and cooking inspired me to become a chef .
C . E .: Gloria is a great chef and the only person who cooks , preps and grills for us at Wild Rosemary . However , she and I work on the menu in tandem . I ’ ve known her for 30 years and I ’ ve probably tasted everything she ’ s made . I have no favorite meals — all of the dishes are like our babies — no one is more special than the other .
Who has influenced your cooking the most ? G . F .: My mother influenced me the most . One of the first dishes she taught me how to make was Cioppino — a classic seafood stew .
What is your go-to kitchen tool ? G . F .: A bench scraper .
Grilled scallops with shaved ( or grated ) Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and parsley .
Cathleen Enders , Co-Owner ( l ) and Gloria Fortunato , Chef / Co-Owner , of Wild Rosemary Bistro in Upper St . Clair .
Best advice for a novice ? G . F .: Hang in there and stay on the road .
C . E .: Don ’ t take no for an answer and be prepared to work your ass off .
What changes have you made due to the pandemic ? C . E .: Since COVID hit , we are open Thursday , Friday and Saturday — and even with a shorter schedule we are putting in 50 hours per week . But we ’ re a small bistro , which ended up being a good thing because we were able to absorb all of the work without needing to let go of a GM or line cooks . We open at 5:30 p . m . and our last seating is at 8:30 p . m .
Favorite meal to prepare at home ? G . F .: Crunchy pasta with breadcrumbs .
C . E .: I ’ ll cook pasta or roasted chicken . I use European butter because it ’ s high in fat and tastes good .
Favorite place to eat al fresco ? G . F .: I never have the opportunity to go out , and when I do , the places I want to go have the same hours as we do !
Next dining trend ? G . F .: It ’ s not a trend , but a state of mind . It is kindness mixed with gratitude . Cathleen and I are very fortunate to have our clientele and friends , and we are thankful for their support . We have a small , all-female staff we are also grateful for . Most importantly , I need to share that I get all the glory while Cathleen does all the work . n
— Reese Randall
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