IN Peters Township February/March 2019 | Page 36

INGOOD TASTE Candid conversations with the dining scene’s most engaging chefs Lou Bucci, Owner, Bertrand Bertrand 1910 Cochran Rd., Manor Oaks Plaza, Scott Township; 412.819.4417. On the Menu: Authentic country French cuisine serving classic fare. Lunch offerings include vari- ous Quiches, from Epinards (sautéed spin- ach, roasted tomato and fresh mozzarella) and Lorraine (Gruyere cheese, smoked ba- con lardon) to Chevre (fresh goat cheese, caramelized leeks) and Cote de Pain, such as Croque Monsieur (Parisian ham, Gruyere, Dijon béchamel, marinated to- mato on grilled bread) and Loire (chicken salad, marinated tomato and spring mix on a croissant—to name a few. There are café specials such as Beouf Bourguignon, Cassoulet (white beans, sausage, tomato and mirepoix), Hache de Viande (meat- loaf, beef glaze and pommes Lyonnaise), Hache de Brioche (a hamburger with ac- companiments) and Beouf Pommes Frites (grilled steak and fries). There are fresh sal- ads including the Bordeaux (baby spinach, goat cheese, candied walnuts, marinated tomatoes with a walnut vinaigrette), Poulet (poached chicken, herb aioli, dried cranberries, walnuts, celery, fresh pear and lettuce) and Nicoise (oil poached tuna, tomato, haricot vert, boiled egg, nicoise olives, anchovy and lettuce with a lemon basil vinaigrette) plus a chilled potato leek soup, called Vichyssoise. Entrées include escargot, smoked salmon, scallops, shrimp cocktail, braised chicken, Frenched pork chop and lamb. The Carre d’agneau aux Herbes is a half rack of Australian lamb wrapped in a Dijon mustard and rose- mary breadcrumb crust. Steak is also on the menu with a seared New York Strip, a pan-seared steak, a glazed ribeye and beef tenderloin. Classic accompaniments include French beans, Yukon gold potato mash, blanched asparagus and thin-cut French fries, of course. Describe Bertrand. A French restaurant with a romantic ambiance. I opened Bertrand in July 2018 to fill a void in the South Hills. Initially, I wanted to serve lunch only until we were comfortable enough to serve dinner. The lunch and dinner menus are distinctly different and preparation is key. The process took approximately two to three weeks to offer both. The restaurant seats 38 inside with seating for 20 on the patio. And it’s BYOB, so come prepared. Q A What led you to open the French eatery? I came out of retirement to do this French concept. I was bored. Actually, Bertrand is my 45th restaurant. Although I’m a native Pittsburgher, I worked for many years in California and Colorado. My first venture was a chain of 18 restaurants in Los Angeles in the ‘60s. Most recently my 44th restaurant was Tartine on Main Street in the West End. The 43rd was London Grille (15 years ago) at The Galleria in Mt. Lebanon for 10 years. I opened London Grille because no one was specializing in prime rib and Yorkshire pudding, and I knew it would be well-received. I researched for two years to find out where the void was in the South Hills market and this is why I developed a French concept. How do you decide on the menu? My chef, Vincent Meredeth, curates the menu. He has been with me for seven years at the various restaurants. Cotes de Porc. 34 724.942.0940 TO ADVERTISE ❘ Who has influenced your career the most? The business aspect of the restaurant industry inspires me and if there’s a need for a certain category. In 1972, I founded the company that became Quiznos. It was called The Starring Roll and I sold it to Denver chef Jim Lombatis, who named it Quiznos. Jim and his partners icmags.com The romantic interior of Bertrand—a French restaurant. did a fantastic job of taking the franchise national. He sold it to an investment group about eight years ago. What is your favorite quick meal to prepare at home? I typically eat a bachelor’s diet. However, when I cook I like to make a thin pork chop or ribeye steak with a baked potato. I might get any cooking ability from my parents—my father was a baker and my mother cooked traditional southern Italian food. What is your favorite go-to ingredient? I use cinnamon, honey and a touch of vinegar in the few dishes I make. What kitchen tool can’t you live without? A chef ’s knife and a bottle opener. I can’t have dinner without a bottle of Rolling Rock. Other than your restaurant, where’s your favorite place to eat? One of my hobbies is to travel. When I’m in Manhattan I enjoy eating at Per Se, a New American and French restaurant in Columbus Circle, and The French Laundry in Napa, both owned by Thomas Keller, a chef and restaurateur. What advice can you share with a novice? Here’s a few—learn how to cook, learn how to buy product, and hire a good lawyer and a good accountant. Basically, go to culinary school and then get an MBA. “Restaurant Business” is two words and you can’t do the first one without the second one. Finally, a chef is an artist. Never give an artist a checkbook. What’s the next big food or dining trend? I follow a market need and that’s the trend. The South Hills was underserved in terms of a French restaurant. I would rather be one of none than one of many. n —Reese Randall