INGOOD TASTE
Chris O ’ Brien , Executive Chef , Hyeholde Restaurant
Candid conversations with the dining scene ’ s most engaging chefs
Hyeholde Restaurant 1516 Coraopolis Heights Road , Moon Township ; 412.264.3116 , hyeholde . com
On the Menu : Hyeholde Restaurant has been hosting events in its Round Room for groups of 18 and above . A few dishes include heirloom local tomatoes with tomato shrub , melon , cured pork lomo and basil , a duck touchon with pistachios and quince jam ; baby beets with baba ghanoush , tahini vinaigrette , and naan chips ; an elk loin with roasted cauliflower purée and pickled chanterelles ; roasted local chicken with velouté , brioche bread pudding , black truffle and baby carrots ; boar with molasses cherries , mustard seeds and mustard jus ; and a house-made pasta with braised oxtail , turnips and bone marrow butter .
Why did you become a chef ? As a young kid , one of my first jobs was washing dishes at a country club after school . I ’ d wash the dishes and make sure my area was as clean as possible , then I ’ d ask the chef if I could help in any way — from peeling potatoes to chopping onions … I just wanted to be doing something . I also went to A . W . Beattie Technical School and then it transitioned into the International Culinary Academy of Pittsburgh , and later Le Cordon Bleu before its eventual closing .
Plated lobster with Pernod sauce and freshly made pasta .
I found it very personal , cooking for someone . You share a part of yourself with guests , which is incredible . When I started working in restaurants , I found a sense of family and community within the industry . The restaurant family is really special . Showing people how to cook something properly and to watch them grow , move on and then excel has been rewarding . Hyeholde has had a lot of great chefs come through here . One of my best friends opened his own restaurant a few years ago after leaving , using what he learned here . Another one of our former chefs owns a Smashburger and another one of our former chefs is opening a pizza shop in the city soon . It ’ s a great field to build a career around because you ’ ll never know everything , so you continue to grow every day . After 30 years I ’ m still learning something new .
What led you to work at Hyeholde Restaurant ? I started here in 1993 . I was a cook under the chef at the time . After spending a season at The Greenbriar I came back and worked up to the position of sous chef , and then to executive chef in 1997 . After 17 years I left and was gone for 11 years . The owner gave me the opportunity to come back to Hyeholde in January 2021 . With the challenge of hiring new staff , we made an effort to focus on private events only right now . Prior to my return , in 2020 I got married at the restaurant . This is a very special place . With Hyeholde ’ s 85th
Chris O ’ Brien , Executive Chef , Hyeholde Restaurant . Photo courtesy of Chef O ’ Brien .
anniversary happening Oct . 16 , it ’ s an exciting time for us . We are refocusing on the future .
Who has influenced your cooking the most ? My dad was a steelworker and my mom worked too , so I was a “ latchkey kid .” I fell in love with food , the culture , and watching Julia Childs on TV . Food was a way for me to be artistic and creative . When I started to learn about food , I began traveling and eating different dishes as I went through California and the Napa Valley , for example — it is educational for me .
Favorite kitchen tool ? I love my Shun knives . Another favorite tool is the chinois — a fine strainer for making sauces .
Best advice for a novice ? If you still want to do it after I try to talk you out of it , I will tell you there are long days , and you don ’ t make a lot of money at first . It takes discipline and commitment and a willingness to make sacrifices . Finally , the two most important words in this industry are : “ Yes , Chef .”
Favorite quick meal to prepare at home ? My wife , Jen , is a former vegetarian , so we like simple food at home . We have pasta Mondays where I make handmade pasta and she makes the red sauce . Or maybe steaks on the grill .
Favorite place to eat in Pittsburgh ? My friend Brian Hammond owns Siempre Algo on East Ohio Street on the North Side . I have a great respect for him because his product is delicious , and he has good integrity .
Next dining trend ? COVID-19 changed a lot for the restaurant business ; because of that , I think people have a deeper appreciation for privately owned or chef-owned restaurants now . Supporting us is the best and only trend . n
— Reese Randall
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