INGOOD TASTE
Candid conversations with the dining scene’s most engaging chefs
David Montanez, Chef and
Owner, Madero Cantina
Madero Cantina
4462 William Penn Highway, Murrysville;
724.519.9906,
maderomexcom.wordpress.com
On the Menu:
Authentic Mexican fare made from
scratch. Chips are chopped and gently
fried in-house with a dash of salt and
paired with salsa, guacamole or traditional
Queso dip with a choice of vegetarian,
beef or chorizo. Lunch offers tacos served
with rice and beans and can be made to
order either Mexican style with onions
and cilantro or Tex Mex style with lettuce,
tomato, cheese and sour cream plus a
variety of salsas. There are also Burritos,
Quesadillas, Enchiladas, Tostadas, Huara-
ches, Fajitas, Flautas, Tamales and Sopes
(handmade corn tortillas topped with
beans and chicken, steak, ground beef,
carnitas, veggies or chorizo, salsa verde or
roja, onions, cilantro, fresco cheese and
rice). Dinner includes a variety of options
including Sopas such as Tortilla Soup and
Sopa de Mariscos—a traditional seafood
broth with peas, carrots, potatoes, fish
and shrimp. Ensaladas are hearty: Fajita,
Burrito or Fiesta Salads and a marinated
shrimp salad called Ensalada Brisas served
on a bed of spinach and finished with a
honey pasilla vinaigrette. Tacos, Burritos,
Fajitas, Enchiladas and Tamales are classic
favorites, plus a Milanesas Obregon with
hand-breaded, thinly sliced chicken or
steak, marinated in spices and wine. The
kids menu has cheese nachos, tacos, fried
chicken, fish fingers and fried (or plain) ice
cream.
Describe Madero Cantina.
We are a traditional Mexican
restaurant, with a menu that
reflects that, and a full bar. I
won’t serve a dish I haven’t
eaten first. If I have not tried it back home in
Mexico, I won’t serve it here. My concept for
Madero was that I wanted something similar
to Las Velas, my other restaurant in Market
Square, downtown—however, something that
is different too. We use very little on the walls
for authenticity, with not too much coloring,
because I like it simple and cozy.
Q A
What led you to opening your own
restaurant?
I was working in the industry for a long time
and I worked for a couple of people. I realized if
I can make them successful, I can make myself
successful. That was about 11 years ago when I
opened Las Velas.
How do you decide on the menu?
I was happy they trusted me to use my
knowledge. Then I thought, if I can do all of
this on my own, I’m ready to try. My wife is not
adventurous at all.
Who has influenced your
cooking the most?
My dad was a great cook; my grandmother
was a really good cook, too. My ability to cook
has all come from the family—the recipes and
David Montanez, Chef and Owner, Madero Cantina.
the food. Here at Madero the food tastes like
home. Being born in Mexico City, I know what
real Mexican food is. However, at 18 I moved
to Cancun for 10 years. And now, I’m here
in Pittsburgh. I liked the Pittsburgh Steelers
growing up in Mexico in the ‘70s and ‘80s.
[There was] the Codores football team and
their uniform was the exact same uniform as
the Pittsburgh Steelers.
What is your favorite dish to prepare at
Madero Cantina?
Chiles Rellenos, which are Poblano peppers
dipped in batter, stuffed with cheese and
covered with a spicy red sauce. I make it with
steak, chicken or pork—it’s a long process. I
peel the peppers, bake them, grill them and
burn them and put them in a plastic bag.
What is your favorite quick meal to
prepare at home?
There’s never a quick meal. I cook from my
heart and everything I like to do is from
scratch. Usually, no matter what I’m making, it
takes approximately two hours at home. Our
two kids like chicken quesadillas, so I make it
for them—and that’s from scratch, too.
What is your favorite go-to ingredient?
Cilantro!
What kitchen tool can’t you live without?
A sharp knife.
Other than Madero Cantina, where’s
your favorite place to eat in Pittsburgh?
Dish Osteria on the South Side. It’s always
very good.
What advice can you share
with a novice?
Be true to your food and never sacrifice quality
for money.
What’s the next big food or dining trend?
I want to keep doing what I’m doing with
Madero and Las Velas, however I think people
having food delivered to their house is only
going to become more popular. n
Mexican-style tacos with rice and beans.
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—Reese Randall