Huffington Magazine Issue 78 | Page 48

SHOPPING WHILE BLACK But at a luxury retailer like Barneys, elitism and brand culture may be particularly potent catalysts for racial discrimination. THE LEGACY OF THE ELITE “It’s elitism — racial profiling is just one expression of that elitism,” former Wall Street Journal reporter Johnnie Roberts told HuffPost. Roberts, who is black, said that 23 years ago, he was detained after shopping at the Barneys store on 7th Avenue and falsely accused of stealing a tie. “It’s just the most obvious way to identify and collect and segregate people that you don’t want in your store.” Barneys was not always elitist. When Barney Pressman founded it in 1923, it was a discount men’s clothing store called Barney’s Clothes. Pressman’s son, Fred Pressman, took over in the late ’50s and transformed it into a purveyor of high fashion, filling it with topname, international designers. Barneys has been a fixture of Manhattan’s luxury shopping scene ever since, a monument to opulence for New York City’s most affluent. “Barneys is an identity package, an icon, the hub of hip,” New York Times columnist Maureen Dowd once wrote of the store. “It is an HUFFINGTON 12.08.13 NOCD (Not Our Class, Darling) joint that would scorn the bargainhunter from its early days.” At Barneys and other high-end stores, salespeople regularly “size up” customers, judging what kind of cash they think they will shell out, said Steven Dennis, a former According to numerous studies... black customers who dress up get a lower level of service than white customers who dress down. senior executive at Neiman Marcus who now runs retail consulting firm SageBerry. Many of the sales staff are on commission and don’t want to waste time with customers they assume won’t buy anything. A 2004 New York magazine profile of four experienced salespeople in the city included a quote from a Barneys shoe salesman, speculating on what a customer might buy: “A woman might come in wearing a Tshirt and jeans and you’ll think, Oh she’s not going to buy anything, she has no money, but then she’ll purchase the whole store!” “When I was at Neiman’s, we would hear these complaints all the time from customers who weren’t waited on,” explained Dennis. “Too young, not dressed nicely,