Huffington Magazine Issue 49 | Page 55

HUFFINGTON 05.19.13 LOVE AND HATE phalt, and Bisbee is in the thick of all of it. EDDIE-X /FLICKR A BOHEMIAN MINING TOWN Bisbee comes into view shortly after you pass through the Route 80 tunnel coming out of Tombstone. You’ll find it when you see the enormous “B” looking down from one of the Mule Mountains. Old Bisbee is splayed out in the valley below. Built in the 19th century, well before the onset of the automobile, the historic section of town is a pastiche of Old Europe in the American southwest, with narrow streets, closely bunched houses and a host of art galleries, coffee shops and restaurants. Bisbee was built around the Copper Queen copper mine, which for a time was one of the largest such mines in the country. When copper was booming, so was Bisbee. In the early 20th century, the town was the largest city between St. Louis and San Francisco. It even had its own stock exchange — the former exchange is now a bar. The mine itself ceased operation in 1975 when falling copper prices made it unprofitable, but its legacy is everywhere. Most notably, there’s the 300-acre, 900foot deep hole in the middle of town, known as the Lavender Pit. It’s named after Harry Lavender, the former manager of the Phelps Dodge Corporation, the company that built it. Holes that big don’t fill up naturally, and filling it now would be prohibitively expensive. And so it remains. There are also slag piles scattered around town, you can still take tours of the old mine, and the Copper Queen Hotel is allegedly haunted. The town itself is made up of several smaller jurisdictions bunched together, the product of the various ethnically segregated mining camps that over time congealed into Bisbee proper. The more affluent ward features the A view of the Lavender Pit copper mine.